London (Fodor's 2012) - Fodor's [82]
A plaque outside the Wells (30 Well Walk | NW3 1BX | 020/7794–3785) delicately informs visitors that this (now terribly upscale) pub was originally built to provide “facilities for the celebration of unpremeditated and clandestine marriages.”
Meanwhile, a much sadder tale is associated with the Magdala (2A South Hill Park | NW3 2SB | 020/7435–2503), the site of a notorious murder in 1955 for which Ruth Ellis was the last woman in Britain to be hanged. It’s a sedate place these days, but the famous bullet holes near the door have been left untouched.
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Getting Oriented | Top Attractions | Worth Noting
Updated by Jack Jewers
The smart borough of Greenwich is on the Greenwich Meridian Line at 0° longitude, the official starting point for every new day, month, and year. The island nation of Britain—and the district—boasts an incredible maritime history. Even though star attraction Cutty Sark—the world’s last remaining tea clipper—was tragically damaged by fire in 2007, Greenwich still preserves its unique charm, from its earthy markets to its distinctive Palladian architecture.
A visit to Greenwich feels like a trip to a seaside town—but one with more than its fair share of historic sites and visitor attractions, all fairly close to one another—that’s designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The grandiose Christopher Wren–designed Old Royal Naval Hospital was originally erected as Greenwich Hospital, a home for veteran sailors. It closed in 1869 and was reincarnated for training young officers; today it’s the setting of many a blockbuster period film.
Greenwich was originally home to one of England’s finest Tudor palaces, and the birthplace of Henry VIII, Elizabeth I, and Mary I. The masterful Inigo Jones built what is considered the first “classical” building in England in 1616—the Queen’s House, now housing a collection of fine art. Right next door, one of the world’s largest maritime museums, the National Maritime Museum, details stories of Britain’s seafaring past and also houses Nelson’s bullet-pierced coat from his last battle.
Verdant Greenwich Park is London’s oldest royal park; here Henry VIII introduced deer so that he could hunt. The Ranger’s House now houses a private art collection, next door to a beautifully tended rose garden. Atop the park’s hill is the Royal Observatory, where you can bestride two hemispheres by standing over the Greenwich Meridian Line and see a planetarium show.
In town, opposite the Greenwich Theatre, the Fan Museum is home to 4,000 fans dating as far back as the 11th century. The Clock Tower Antiques Market and the lively Greenwich Market keep browsers busy on weekends.
Toward north Greenwich, the hopelessly ambitious Millennium Dome has been successfully reborn as the O2 and has hosted a string of the world’s biggest bands and stand-up comedians in memorable, if wallet-busting, gigs. Now the most popular concert venue in London, it’s slated to host the gymnastics and basketball events of the 2012 Olympic Games. In the opposite direction, downstream in Woolwich, lies the Thames Flood Barrier.
GETTING ORIENTED
TOP REASONS TO GO
Greenwich Meridian Line: Stand astride time at the Royal Observatory—where the world's time is set—and be in the Eastern and Western hemispheres simultaneously.
Sir Inigo Jones's Queen's House: In the 17th century, this "avant-garde" building was the first to use the lessons of the Italian Renaissance in England—pay a call and see what all the fuss was about.
Cutty Sark: Discover Britain's seafaring past at this last extant 19th-century tea clipper, then head a few blocks away to visit the National Maritime Museum.
Greenwich (Village): Like its namesake in New York City, the village of Greenwich is also filled with quaint streets and fun outdoor markets.
Walk under the Thames to