London (Fodor's 2012) - Fodor's [85]
WORTH NOTING
Cutty Sark. At this writing, the famous tea clipper itself remains closed until spring 2012. In addition to repairing the damage from the 2007 fire, the ship is being raised and other work is taking place to make it more accessible to visitors. This sleek, romantic clipper was built in 1869, one among fleets and fleets of similar tall-masted wooden ships that plied oceanic highways of the 19th century, trading in exotic commodities—tea, in this case. The Cutty Sark was also the fastest, sailing the China–London route in 1871 in only 107 days. | King William Walk, Greenwich | SE10 9HT | 020/8858–2698 | www.cuttysark.org.uk | DLR: Cutty Sark.
Fan Museum.
The 2,000 fans here, housed in two restored 1820s buildings opposite the Greenwich Theatre, date from the 17th century onward and make up the world’s only such collection. The history and purpose of these objects, often exquisitely crafted from ivory, mother-of-pearl, and tortoiseshell, are explained in satisfying detail. It was the personal vision—and fan collection—of Helene Alexander that brought it into being, and the workshop and conservation–study center that she has also set up ensure that this anachronistic art has a future. If your interest is really piqued, you can attend fan-making workshops (on the first Saturday of every month only—£20 for the afternoon; call ahead or visit the Web site for booking details). TIP Afternoon tea is served in the café on Tuesday and Sunday at 3 pm. | 12 Croom’s Hill, Greenwich | SE10 8ER | 020/8305–1441 | www.fan-museum.org | £4 | Tues.–Sat. 11–5, Sun. noon–5 | DLR: Greenwich.
Ranger’s House.
This handsome, early-18th-century villa, which was the Greenwich Park ranger’s official residence during the 19th century, is hung with Stuart and Jacobean portraits. But the most interesting diversion is the Wernher Collection, more than 700 works of art with a northern European flavor, amassed by diamond millionaire Julius Wernher at the turn of the 20th century. After making his money in diamond mining, he amassed an eclectic art collection, from jewelry (one of the largest in the country), porcelain, and enamels, to some particularly bizarre curios. Wernher’s American wife, Birdie, was a strong influence and personality during the belle époque, which is easy to imagine from her striking portrait by Sargent. | Chesterfield Walk, Greenwich Park, Greenwich | SE10 8QX | 020/8853–0035 | www.english-heritage.org.uk | £6 | Apr.–Sept., Mon.–Wed. guided tours only, 11:30 and 2:30, Sun. 11–5; call ahead to confirm | DLR: Greenwich; no direct bus access, only to Vanbrugh Hill (from east) and Blackheath Hill (from west).
OFF THE BEATEN PATH: Thames Barrier Visitors’ Centre.
Learn what comes between London and its famous river—a futuristic-looking metal barrier that has been described as the eighth wonder of the world. Multimedia presentations, a film on the Thames’s history, working models, and views of the barrier itself put the importance of the relationship between London and its river in perspective. | Unity Way, Eastmoor St., Woolwich | SE18 5NJ | 020/8305–4188 | www.environment-agency.gov.uk | £3.50 | Apr.–Sept., daily 10:30–4:30; Oct.–Mar., daily 11–3:30; last entry 30 min before closing | National Rail: Charlton (from London Bridge),