London (Fodor's 2012) - Fodor's [87]
GETTING ORIENTED
TOP REASONS TO GO
Hampton Court Palace: Get lost in the leafy walls of the palace’s maze as dusk falls.
Strawberry Hill: The 19th-century birthplace of connoisseur Horace Walpole’s “Gothick” style, this mock castle just reopened its doors to the public in 2010.
Richmond: Browse the antiques shops and travel back in time of this lovely “village.”
Kew Gardens: See the earth from above, by visiting Kew’s treetop walkway, at the Royal Botanic Gardens.
Thames-side Views: Enjoy a pint from the creaking balcony of a centuries-old riverside pub as you watch the boats row home.
MAKING THE MOST OF YOUR TIME
Hampton Court Palace requires at least half a day to experience its magic fully, although you could make do with an afternoon at Richmond Park, or a couple of hours for any of the other attractions. Because of the distance between the sights, too much traveling eats into your day. The best option is to concentrate on one of the principal sights, adding in a brisk park visit, one stately home, and a riverside promenade before rounding off with an evening pint.
GETTING THERE
The District Line is the best of the Tube options, stopping at Turnham Green (in the heart of Chiswick but a fair walk from the houses), Gunnersbury (for Syon Park), Kew Gardens, and Richmond. For Hampton Court, overland train is your quickest option: South West trains run from Waterloo twice an hour, with most requiring a change at Surbiton. There are also regular, direct trains from Waterloo to Chiswick station (best for Chiswick House), Kew Bridge, Richmond (for Ham House), and St. Margaret’s (best for Marble Hill House). London Overground trains also stop at Gunnersbury, Kew Gardens, and Richmond. A pleasant, if slow, way to go is by river. Boats depart upriver from Westminster Pier, by Big Ben, for Kew (1½ hours), Richmond (2 hours), and Hampton Court (3 hours) several times a day in summer, less frequently from October through March. The boat trip is worth taking only if you make it an integral part of your day out, and be aware that it can get very breezy on the water
FEELING PECKISH?
The Original Maids of Honour (288 Kew Rd., Kew | TW9 3DU | 020/8940–2752 | www.theoriginalmaidsofhonour.co.uk), the most traditional of Old English tearooms, is named for the famous tarts invented here and still baked by hand on the premises. Tea is served daily 2:30–6. They also serve lunch daily, in two sittings at 12:30 and 1:30. Or opt for take-out to picnic at Kew Gardens or on Kew Green.
NEAREST PUBLIC RESTROOMS
Richmond Park, Kew Gardens, and all the stately homes have public restrooms available.
A GOOD WALK
From Chiswick House, follow Burlington Lane and take a left onto Hogarth Lane—which is anything but a lane—to reach Hogarth’s House. Chiswick’s Church Street is the nearest thing to a sleepy country village street in all of London. Follow it down to the Thames and turn left at the bottom to reach the 18th-century riverfront houses of Chiswick Mall, referred to by locals as “Millionaire’s Row” (with runaway inflation, some realtors call it “Billionaire’s Row”). There are several pretty riverside pubs near Hammersmith Bridge.
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CHISWICK AND KEW
Chiswick is the nearest Thames-side destination to central London. It’s a low-key district, content with its good run of restaurants, stylish shops, and film-star residents, but it is also proud of the seething moral authority of its most famous son: William Hogarth, one of Britain’s best-loved painters, lived here, and tore the fabric of the 18th-century nation to pieces in his slew of satirical engravings. Incongruously stranded among Chiswick’s terraced homes are a number of fine 18th-century houses, and a charming little village survives, populated by London’s affluent middle-class families. A mile or so beyond Chiswick is Kew,