London (Fodor's 2012) - Fodor's [93]
Updated by Alex Wijeratna
London rivals Tokyo, New York, and Paris as one of the best places to eat in the world right now. The sheer diversity of restaurants here is unparalleled. Among the city’s 6,700 restaurants are see-and-be-seen hot spots, casual ethnic eateries, innovative gastropubs, and hotel-based temples to haute cuisine.
To measure London’s spectacular culinary rise, note that it was once a common dictum that the British ate to live, whereas the French lived to eat. The best of British food—local, seasonal, wild, and regional—is now all the rage and appears on more menus by the day. Waste not, want not “nose-to-tail” eating—where every scrap of meat is deemed fair game for the plate—has made a spectacular comeback at St. John in Clerkenwell, and fits perfectly with the age of austerity. Meanwhile, the haute cuisine scene powers serenely on. Clare Smyth sets the highest bar as head chef at Restaurant Gordon Ramsay; Marcus Wareing wows at the Berkeley; Brett Graham is cooking on gas at the Ledbury; and Hélène Darroze does it for the girls at the Connaught.
For cheap eats, don’t miss the city’s unofficial dish, the ubiquitous Indian curry. The quality of other international cuisines also has grown in recent years, with London becoming known for its Thai, Malaysian, Spanish, Turkish, and North African restaurants. With all of the choices, traditional British food, when you track it down, appears as just one more exotic cuisine in the pantheon.
Whatever eating experience you seek, London can likely deliver. From dirt-cheap street food to posh multicourse meals, the city has become a destination for gustatory adventurers. In this chapter, we’ve uncovered the best of the best. Dig in, and enjoy!
WHERE TO EAT PLANNER
EATING OUT STRATEGY
Where should you eat? With thousands of London eateries competing for your attention, it may seem like a daunting question. But fret not—our expert writers and editors have done most of the legwork. The selections here represent the best this city has to offer—from hot pudding to haute cuisine. Search “Best Bets” for top recommendations by price, cuisine, and experience. Sample local flavor in the neighborhood features. Or find a review quickly in the neighborhood listings. Whichever way you look at it, you’re sure to get a taste of London!
RESERVATIONS
Plan ahead if you’re determined to snag a sought-after reservation. Some renowned restaurants are booked weeks or months in advance. In the reviews, we mention reservations only when they’re essential or not accepted, though it’s always a good idea to book as far ahead as you can and reconfirm when you arrive in London. Note that some top restaurants also now take credit-card details and charge a penalty fee if you’re a no-show.
WHAT TO WEAR
When in England’s style capital, do as the natives do: Dress up to eat out. Whatever your style, dial it up a notch. Have some fun while you’re at it. Pull out the clothes you’ve been saving for a “special” occasion and get a little glamorous. As unfair as it seems, the way you look can influence how you’re treated—and where you’re seated. Generally speaking, jeans and a button-down shirt will suffice at most table-service restaurants in the £ to ££ range. Moving up from there, many pricier restaurants require jackets, and some insist on ties. Shorts, sweatpants, and sports jerseys are rarely appropriate. Note that in reviews we mention dress only when men are required to wear a jacket, or a jacket and tie.
TIPPING AND TAXES
Do not tip bar staff in pubs and bars—though you can always offer to buy them a drink. In restaurants, tip 10% to 12.5% of the check for full meals if service is not already included; tip a small token if you’re just having coffee or tea. If paying by credit card, double-check that a tip has not already been included in the bill.
CHILDREN
Unless your children behave impeccably, it’s best to avoid the high-class establishments; you’re unlikely to find a children’s menu there, anyway.