London (Fodor's 2012) - Fodor's [99]
CUPCAKE CENTRAL
London’s turning into cupcake central, and Bea’s of Bloomsbury (44 Theobald’s St., Bloomsbury | WC1 | 020/7242–8330 | www.beasofbloomsbury.com) is one of the best teashops and cupcake joints in town. With its on-site bakery, Bea's churns out freshly baked sugary delights like the raspberry cupcake with vanilla sponge, butter cream, and a fresh raspberry on top, and the heavenly chocolate fudge cupcake with fudge ganache icing. Don’t miss the brightly colored gingerbread, praline, or carrot cake cupcakes, and try not to drool over the cornucopia of impeccable three-layered chocolate truffle cakes, New York cheese cakes, lemon drizzle Bundts, fruit cakes, and pecan pies. Afternoon tea (2:30–5:30 pm weekdays, and noon–5:30 pm on weekends) with cupcakes, scones, mini-meringues, and Valrhona brownies is £9.90.
SPOTLIGHT ON THE CITY, CLERKENWELL, AND SOUTH BANK
Historic and just-beyond-the-City-limits, Clerkenwell is one of the most cutting-edge, radical, and trendy quarters for London gastro-dining, which sets it in marked contrast to the adjacent City, which is conservative-minded and caters overwhelmingly to business-focused dining.
Across the River Thames, the South Bank has always been outside the historically stifling bounds of The City and has freer rein to experiment, and now anchors itself firmly around the foodie mecca that is Borough food market. Unrepentant City bankers troop over to Hawksmoor (157 Commercial St., The City | E1 | 020/7247–7392 | www.thehawksmoor.com) for dictionary-thick 35-day-aged char-grilled British Longhorn steaks. Farther north, there's a more trendy, relaxed vibe, where you’ll find Aussie/Kiwi–inspired fare at Caravan (11–13 Exmouth Market, Islington | EC1 | 020/7833–8115 | www.caravanonexmouth.co.uk). Morito (32 Exmouth Market, Islington | EC1 | 020/7608–1550) does cheap and consistently high-quality Spanish tapas at fair prices.
UNDER £10
You can get smoked mackerel superfood salad and a banana split at "fresh fast food" restaurant Leon (12 Ludgate Circus, Blackfriars | EC4 | 020/7489–1580 | www.leonrestaurants.co.uk) for less than £10. Brightly colored Applebee’s Café (5 Stoney St., Borough | SE1 | 020/7407–5777 | www.applebeesfish.com) conjures up a hearty Italian fish soup and garlic saffron bruschetta for £9.50. For olde English fare, treat yourself to half a dozen Dorset rock oysters for £10.50 at Wright Brothers Oyster & Porter House (11 Stoney St., Borough | SE1 | 020/7403–9554 | www.wrightbros.eu.com).
OFF THE TOURIST TRACK
Chef-Centric Clerkenwell
The area where the starchiness of The City fades into the relaxed artiness of Islington is a fertile ground for chefs and restaurants. Within walking distance of Farringdon Tube, Bistrot Bruno Loubet (86–88 Clerkenwell Rd., Clerkenwell | EC1 | 020/7324–4455 | www.bistrotbrunoloubet.com) serves highly expressive southwestern French cuisine. At the tucked-away Clerkenwell Kitchen (27–31 Clerkenwell Close, Clerkenwell | EC1 | 020/7101–9959 | www.theclerkenwellkitchen.co.uk ) the focus is on organic, seasonal, and sustainable dishes.
On St. John’s Square, New Zealander Anna Hansen's the Modern Pantry (47–48 St. John's Sq., Clerkenwell | EC1 | 020/7553–9210 | www.themodernpantry.co.uk) is doing something special with modern fusion food at this all-day pantry and deli. At St. John (26 St. John St., Smithfield | EC1 | 020/7251–0848 | www.stjohnrestaurant.com) Fergus Henderson prepares British nose-to-tail carnivorous cuisine, famed for its no-nonsense approach to offal and all bits in between.
Bustling Borough Market
First mentioned in 1276 and believed to have existed in Roman times, Borough Market is a favorite with tourists, London's top chefs and foodies alike. From Thursday to Saturday, the unassuming location under Victorian wrought-iron railway arches at London Bridge is packed with foodies eager to pick up the finest and freshest