Los Angeles & Southern California - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [106]
Another oldie is the 1910 Lummis House (off Map; 323-222-0546; 200 E Ave 43 at Carlota Blvd; admission free; noon-4pm Fri-Sun), the former home of writer, librarian and Arts & Craft pioneer Charles Lummis. It was built largely by hand using local boulders and old rails. Inside is a small exhibit on Lummis, who also founded LA’s oldest museum, the nearby Southwest Museum of the American Indian (off Map; 323-221-2164; www.southwestmuseum.org; 234 Museum Dr; ), which is undergoing massive restoration and only open on weekends for family-oriented activities.
Pasadena & San Gabriel Valley
The Rose Parade may have given Pasadena long-lasting fame, but it’s the progressive spirit of this genteel city and its location beneath the lofty San Gabriel Mountains that make it a charming and attractive place year-round. Its immaculate streets may conjure visions of Wisteria Lane (of Desperate Housewives fame), but there are also plenty of grand old Craftsman mansions, fine art museums, extraordinary gardens and a lively downtown to make it a lively happening place.
The main fun zone is Old Pasadena, a bustling 20-block shopping and entertainment district set up in successfully restored historic brick buildings along Colorado Blvd west of Arroyo Parkway. Other interesting strips, especially if you’re into shopping, are South Lake Ave, about 1 mile east of here, and Mission St and Fair Oaks Ave in South Pasadena. The last is a stretch of Route 66 with a rare old-timey soda fountain Click here.
Pasadena is served by the Metro Rail Gold Line from Downtown LA. Pasadena ARTS buses (fare 50¢) plough around the city on seven different routes.
The surrounding communities of suburban San Gabriel Valley have large Asian populations and some excellent restaurants Click here. The northern town of La Cañada is the gateway to the Angeles Crest Hwy.
HUNTINGTON LIBRARY, ART COLLECTIONS & BOTANICAL GARDENS
Unwind in the zenlike tranquility of the Japanese Garden? Study the jaunty pose of Thomas Gainsborough’s The Blue Boy? Linger over the illuminated vellum of a 1455 Gutenberg Bible? It’s hard to know where to start exploring this genteel country estate (Map; 626-405-2100; www.huntington.org; 1151 Oxford Rd; adult/child 5-11/student/senior $15/6/10/12; 10:30am-4:30pm Tue-Sun Jun-Aug, noon-4:30pm Tue-Fri, 10:30am-4:30pm Sat & Sun Sep-May; ), the legacy of railroad tycoon Henry Huntington and one of the most delightful and inspirational spots in LA. It’s lovely year-round but best on a weekday in spring, as summers get very hot and weekends are busy.
Budget at least an hour to admire the 18th-century French and British paintings and rare and ancient books, then leave another hour or two for romping around the Japanese Garden with its sunken bridge and water-lily pond, the charming Desert Garden with Seussian-shaped organ-pipe cacti and giant blue agave, or the Rose Garden, which is at its redolent best from April to August. For little ones the interactive Children’s Garden yields lots of tactile surprises.
Picnics are not allowed but, in any case, the classic way to cap off a visit to the Huntington is with afternoon tea in the Rose Garden Tea Room (Map; 626-683-8131; $15). It’s hugely popular, so make advance reservations or else pick up some sandwiches in the adjacent self-service cafeteria.
While in the area, make a quick detour to El Molino Viejo (Old Mill; Map; 626-449-5458; www.oldmill.info; 1120 Old Mill Rd; admission free; 1-4pm Tue-Sun; ), a brick and adobe structure that houses Southern California’s first water-powered grist mill, built in 1816 for the San Gabriel Mission.
NORTON SIMON MUSEUM
Rodin’s The Thinker is only a mind-teasing