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Continue a block north, then turn left on Grand Ave, which takes you past the Music Center (4). This giant entertainment complex consists of two theaters and two concert halls, most famously the wonderfully contorted Walt Disney Concert Hall (5; Click here), a Frank Gehry masterpiece and home of the world-renowned LA Phil. More culture awaits as you head south on Grand Ave passing first the Colburn School of Performing Arts (6; Click here) and then MOCA Grand Ave (7; Click here), Southern California’s premier contemporary art museum.

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WALK FACTS

Start & Finish Union Station

Distance 5 miles

Duration At least half a day, preferably a full day

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MOCA sits at the edge of the Financial District with its mix of historic office buildings and modern monoliths. On your right is one such worker’s beehive, the Wells Fargo Center, where the Wells Fargo History Museum (8; Click here) offers a trip back to the stagecoach era. Head for the Hope St exit past the tropical indoor garden accented with nude sculptures, then turn left and walk to the top of the Bunker Hill Steps (9; Click here) – anchored by another nude – which cascade down to 5th St past LA’s tallest building, the US Bank Tower (10; Click here), which is on your left. In front of you is the historic Richard Riordan Central Library (11; Click here) and its modern addition, both worthy of a quick spin. From here head downhill on 5th St, past the grand Millennium Biltmore Hotel (12; Click here) whose public hallways and ballrooms ooze with old-time glamour.

The hotel flanks Pershing Square (13; Click here), the site of summertime concerts and a holiday-season ice rink. From here, head south on Hill St where you’ll be looking at shimmering baubles in the Jewelry District (14; Click here). Turn left on 7th St, then duck into Middle East–flavored St Vincent Court (15; Click here) for a gyro and minty tea, saving room for dessert at the Depression-era Clifton’s Cafeteria (16; Click here). To get there, continue on 7th, turn left on Broadway and it’ll be on your right. Still older than Clifton’s are Broadway’s many silent-era movie palaces, including the magnificent Los Angeles Theater (17; Click here) across the street, which is used occasionally for screenings and special events.

For a quick spin around historic Downtown’s emerging gallery district, walk right on 5th St to the corner of Spring St, which is dominated by the venerable Alexandria Hotel (18), which once bedded Bogart, Garbo and other Hollywood royalty, then became low-income housing and is now getting the loft-treatment. Charlie O’s dive bar downstairs hosts a weekend comedy club Click here. Across the street, the Red Dot Gallery (19; 213-817-6002; 118 W 5th St; 11am-8pm) is entered via Weenez hot-dog shop. Next up is Bert Green Fine Art (20; Click here), whose owner basically invented Gallery Row and the Downtown Art Walk. Check out what’s up at Pharmaka Gallery (21; 213-689-7799; 101 W 5th St; noon-6pm Wed-Sat) across the street, then turn left on Main St to walk past a slew of funky new businesses, including an indie bookstore, a fashion designer and several restaurants, including Pete’s Café & Bar (22; Click here).

Head back to Broadway via 4th St, turn right and get ready for the Bradbury Building (23; Click here) whose lobby will take your breath away. Across the street, the lively Grand Central Market (24; Click here) is a good spot to rest your feet and have a bite or a cuppa before continuing two more blocks on Broadway to 1st St. Turn right and look up at the magnificent LA City Hall (25; Click here), whose observation tower is well worth it on clear days. Continue on 1st St past the LA Times (26; Click here) on your right to the hulking Caltrans District 7 Headquarters (27; 100 S Main St), which has windows that open or close depending on the outside temperature and angle of the sun. Santa Monica–based architect Thom Mayne won the 2005 Pritzker Prize, the Oscar of architecture, for this futuristic