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TOP END

L’Opera (Map; 562-491-0066; 101 Pine Ave, Long Beach; mains $11-32; 11:30am-11pm; ) Even simple dishes like bruschetta and pesto gnocchi become feistily flavored culinary works of art at this elegant dining shrine. The waiters are old-school and the sommelier capable of dissecting each wine down to the molecular level. We were blown away by the ravioli ai tartufo (truffle ravioli) and the buttery filet mignon with wild mushrooms.

Tracht’s (Map; 562-499-2533; 111 E Ocean Blvd; mains $14-48; noon-2pm & 5-10pm; ) Long Beach is not known for innovative cuisine, but that should change now that Suzanne Tracht has come to town. Her contempo-chic dining room at the revamped Renaissance Hotel serves the same upscale chophouse fare as her original restaurant Jar in West Hollywood. Regulars swear by the pot roast with carrots and caramelized onions. Great fire-pit patio, too.

Downtown Los Angeles

BUDGET

Grand Central Market (Map; 213-624-2378; 317 S Broadway; meals $2-9.50; 9am-6pm; ) This historic indoor market is packed with wonderful snack options. Maria’s Pescado Frito (central aisle) has fabulous fish tacos, ceviche tostadas and fish soup; Kabab & More (right aisle) has finger-lickin’ charbroiled kebabs served with tangy hummus; while the old-timey China Café (upper level, near Hill St) makes sinus-clearing chicken soup and heaping plates of chow mein. See also Click here.

Philippe the Original (Map; 213-628-3781; 1001 N Alameda St; sandwiches $5-6; 6am-10pm; ) From LAPD hunks to smooching couples, everyone loves Philippe’s, where the French-dip sandwich was invented a century ago. Order a crusty roll filled with meat (beef is best, insiders ask for ‘double-dipped’) along with some crunchy coleslaw and hunker down at communal tables on the sawdust-covered floor. Coffee is just 9¢ (and that’s no misprint). Cash only.

Haru Ulala (Map; 213-620-0977; 368 E 2nd St; sushi & dishes $2-10; 6pm-midnight Sun-Thu, 6pm-2am Fri & Sat) The Kirin flows as freely as the conversation at this Little Tokyo izakaya (tavern) where the best seats are at the bar with full view of the cooks and sushi meister in action. Choice picks from the crayon-scrawled menu are the green-tea noodles, the slow-cooked Kurobuta pork belly and the sake-marinated cod.

Colori Kitchen (Map; 213-622-5950; 429 W 8th St; mains $6-10; 11am-3pm Mon-Sat, 6pm-10pm Fri & Sat; ) Everybody feels like family in this Euro-flavored eatery where owner-chef Luigi kicks Italian comfort food into high gear. It’s a fab choice for anyone who doesn’t believe in shelling out $20 for a plate of pasta that cost the restaurant $2 to make. Service is tops. BYOB or hit the Golden Gopher two doors down for postprandial libations.

Clifton’s Cafeteria (Map; 213-627-1673; 648 Broadway, Downtown; dishes $3-8; 6:30am-7pm; ) This eatery was founded in 1931 by a Salvation Army captain who doled out free grub to starving Angelenos during the Great Depression. They still serve ‘grub’ but it’s the ultracampy enchanted forest setting, complete with fake trees, squirrels and deer, that makes it so special.

MIDRANGE

Café Metropol (Map; 213-613-1537; 923 E 3rd St; dishes $7-15; 8:30am-10pm Mon-Sat, 9am-2pm Sun; ) This exposed-brick, high-ceilinged, art-studded bistro embodies the ways in which the Arts District is transforming Downtown. Metropol’s a bit tricky to find, but the gourmet sandwiches and panini, organic salads and pizzas – all made with choice ingredients imported from Europe – make it worthwhile. There’s live music on some nights (cover $5, plus $10 minimum).

Oomasa (Map; 213-623-9048; 100 Japanese Village Plaza; mains lunch $9-13, dinner $10-20; 11:30am-12:30am Wed-Sun) Sushi purists rejoice: you won’t find any truffle-oil-infused wasabi nonsense at this old-school Litte Tokyo joint. From dark-red tuna to marbled salmon, it’s all superfresh, expertly cut, affordably priced and best enjoyed while snuggled into an old-timey booth.

Empress Pavilion (Map; 213-617-9898; 3rd