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Los Angeles & Southern California - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [150]

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(roasted pork shank). Enjoy these and other delectable northern-Italian favorites basking in the glow of the fireplace or relaxing on the romantic patio.

Firefly (off Map; 818-762-1833; 11720 Ventura Blvd, Studio City; mains $16-24; 6pm-2am Mon-Sat) Start off with an aperitif in the sexy, bordello-red library lounge, then retreat to a muslin-curtained cabana where you’ll soon be munching addictive crunchy fried olives. Reliable mains include the tangy lemon tagliatelle, pan-seared salmon and baked pork. It’s unsigned, so look for an ivy-covered building with the valet stand.

Smoke House (Map; 818-845-3731; 4420 Lakeside Dr, Burbank; mains $20-35; 11:30am-10:30pm Mon-Thu, 11:30am-11pm Fri & Sat, 10am-9pm Sun; ) Surrender helplessly to your inner carnivore at this Industry hangout of the old-school variety. Bob Hope and Bing Crosby were early fans, and today George Clooney, Kevin Costner and other big wigs continue to enjoy potent Bloody Marys and yummy cuts of aged steaks and prime rib. Whatever you order, don’t miss out on the legendary garlic bread. Famous Sunday brunch, too.

Saddle Peak Lodge (Map; 818-222-3888; 419 Cold Canyon Rd, Calabasas; brunch $15-18, dinner mains $32-42; 11am-3pm Sat & Sun, 5-10pm Wed-Sun; ) As rustic as a Colorado mountain lodge, this rural oasis tucked into the Santa Monica Mountains serves up elk, venison, buffalo and other game in a setting watched over by mounted versions of the same. This is fine dining, so don’t come here after a day on the trail. Reservations are recommended.

Pasadena

BUDGET

Casa Bianca (off Map; 323-256-9617; 1650 Colorado Blvd; mains $8-14.50, pizzas $5-20; 4pm-midnight Tue-Thu, 4pm-1am Fri & Sat; ) For over half a century, the Martorana family has plied Oxy students (from nearby Occidental College) and pizza punters of all stripes with habit-forming thin-crust pies. Their homemade lasagna and ravioli are also culinary excursions straight to the Boot. Pass the inevitable wait with drinks at nearby Chalet.

Marston’s (Map; 626-796-2459; 151 E Walnut St; mains breakfast & lunch $8-12, dinner $15-26; 7am-2:30pm Tue-Fri, 5:30-9:30pm Wed-Sat, 8am-2:30pm Sat & Sun; ) Marston’s serves lunch and dinner, but it’s the prospect of the scrumptious all-American breakfasts here that helps us get out of bed. But no matter when you get there, this diminutive cottage with its sunny porch is likely to be packed to the rafters.

Fair Oaks Pharmacy & Soda Fountain (off Map; 626-799-1414; 1526 Mission St; lunch $4-9; food 11am-6pm, soda fountain & store 9am-9pm Mon-Sat, 10am-7pm Sun) Get your kicks at this original 1915 soda fountain right on Route 66. Slurp an old-fashioned ‘phosphate’ (flavored syrup, soda water and ‘secret potion’) while waiting for a heaping sandwich or hamburger or stocking up on classic candy in the gift shops. It’s touristy, sure, but fun nonetheless.

MIDRANGE

Burger Continental (Map; 626-792-6634; 535 S Lake Ave; breakfast/lunch buffet $5/9, Sunday brunch $15, dishes $8-16; 7am-11pm; ) What sounds like a patty-and-bun joint is in reality a high-energy Middle Eastern nosh spot that delivers a first-class culinary journey at economical prices. Breakfast and lunch are all-you-can-eat buffets and there are nightly specials as well. Live bands and belly dancers provide ear and eye candy from Wednesday to Sunday. Great patio.

Saladang Song (Map; 626-793-5200; 383 S Fair Oaks Ave; mains $8-20; 7:30am-9pm Sun-Thu, 7:30am-10pm Fri & Sat; ) Thai gets a contemporary twist at this pseudo-industrial outpost whose always-bustling patio is hemmed in by artsily rendered concrete walls. Even simple curries become culinary poetry here, but it’s such dishes as the steamed fish cake and coconut-flecked salmon that make foodies take notice. The original Saladang next door has a more traditional menu.

Vertical Wine Bistro (Map; 626-795-3999; 70 N Raymond Ave; mains $12-24; 5-11pm Sun-Thu, 4pm-1am Fri & Sat; ) Although it’s a sophisticated wine bar dressed in cocoa and candlelight, don’t worry if you can’t tell your pinot noir from your pinot grigio. Each dish, including such menu

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