Los Angeles & Southern California - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [183]
Hollywood Route (daily) Covers Hollywood east of Highland Ave and links with the Los Feliz Route (daily) at Franklin Ave & Vermont Ave.
Taxi
Because of LA’s size and its traffic, getting around by cab will cost you a king’s ransom. And forget about flagging one down: cabbies only respond to phone calls, although there are usually some lined up at airports, train stations, bus stations and major hotels. Fares are metered and cost $2.65 at flag fall plus $2.45 per mile. Cabs leaving from LAX charge a $2.50 airport fee. For details, check www.taxicabsla.org.
Checker ( 800-300-5007)
Independent ( 800-521-8294)
Yellow Cab ( 877-733-3305)
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AROUND LOS ANGELES
Hit the road, Jack, and leave behind LA’s congestion, crowds and smog in no time. Get an early start to beat the commuter traffic (or catch a Greyhound bus) and point the compass across the ocean, up into the mountains or into the vast and imposing desert. Even Sin City, across the Nevada stateline, is only a few hours away.
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CATALINA ISLAND
Mediterranean-flavored Catalina Island is a popular getaway for harried Angelenos, but sinks under the weight of day-trippers in summer. Stay overnight, though, and feel the ambience go from frantic to romantic. Catalina has a unique ecosystem and has gone through stints as a hangout for sea-otter poachers, smugglers and Union soldiers before it was snapped up by chewing-gum magnate William Wrigley Jr (1861–1932) in 1919. For years he sent his Chicago Cubs baseball team here for spring training. Today, most of it is owned by the Santa Catalina Island Conservancy, which ensures that it’s kept development free. Commercial activity is concentrated in Avalon, which is small enough to be explored in an hour or two, so plan on spending the rest of the day hiking, taking to the water or heading out on a tour. The tourist office ( 310-510-1520; www.catalina.com; vary) is on the Green Pier. The only other settlement, even tinier than Avalon, is Two Harbors in the remote backcountry, which has only a general store, a dive and kayak center, a snack bar and a lodge. If you want to lose the crowds, head here.
Sights & Activities
It’s a nice stroll along the waterfront to the 1929 art deco Casino ( 310-510-0179; 1 Casino Way), which has well-done murals, a movie theater with a twinkling ceiling and a fabulous upstairs ballroom; the last can only be seen on guided one-hour tours ($14.50). Tickets also include admission to the modest but insightful Catalina Island Museum ( 310-510-2414; www.catalinamuseum.org; adult/child/senior $4/1/3; 10am-4pm Apr-Dec, closed Thu Jan-Mar) in the same building. Continuing past the casino takes you to the privately owned Descanso Beach, where you can fork over $2 to lie in the grass or sand, get sloshed at the bar, or go snorkeling. There’s good snorkeling at Lovers’ Cove and at Casino Point Marine Park, an actual marine reserve that’s also the best shore dive. Rent gear at any of these locations or on the Green Pier. Another way to escape the throngs is by kayaking to the quiet coves along Catalina’s rocky coastline. Heading out from Descanso Beach (rental available) will get you there in no time.
To get into the nature-protected backcountry, hop on the Airport Shuttle ( 310-510-0143; round-trip $17; up to 6 times daily) or on the Safari Bus ( 310-510-4205; tickets $6.50-26; mid-Jun–early Sep). The Safari Bus goes all the way to Two Harbors. Both companies require advance reservations; you must also get a permit from the Catalina Conservancy ( 310-510-2595; www.catalinaconservancy.com; 125 Claressa St, Avalon; biking/hiking $50/free) if you’re going to be hiking or mountain biking. There’s very little shade, so bring a hat, sunscreen and plenty of water.
Alternatively, you could just hop on an air-conditioned tour bus and let someone else show you around. Both Catalina Adventure Tours ( 310-510-2888; www.catalinaadventuretours.com;