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Los Angeles & Southern California - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [199]

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than inspired. But this 990-room hotel hasn’t turned into a pumpkin yet; it’s redeemed by its great pool – the best of the three Disney hotels – and a 110ft waterslide. The monorail stops outside.

Disney’s Grand Californian Hotel ( 714-635-2300; 1600 S Disneyland Dr; r $380-705; ) Soaring timber beams rise majestically above the cathedral-like lobby of the six-story Grand Californian, a monument to the American Arts and Crafts movement and the top choice for lodging at Disneyland. Rooms have cushy amenities, such as triple-sheeted beds, down pillows and all-custom furnishings, from bedspreads to bathrobes. Outside there’s a redwood waterslide into the pool. At night, kids wind down with bedtime stories by the lobby’s giant stone hearth. But it’s not all about the kids – for a little personal pampering, sip tea in the Tea Pavilion as you await your exotic coconut rub and milk ritual wrap at the plush Mandara Spa. Even if you’re not staying here, a brief respite in the astounding lobby is a must (and totally acceptable). Enter from Downtown Disney or DCA.


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EATING

For both parks, call Disney Dining ( 714-781-3463) if you have dietary restrictions, need to make dining reservations or want to inquire about character dining (meals during which Disney characters work the dining room and greet the kids). If you’re here for a birthday, call and ask about decorate-your-own-cake parties and birthday meals (you’ll need to order 48 hours ahead). Every restaurant at Disneyland Resort has a kids’ menu. Park maps indicate restaurants and cafés where you can find healthy foods and vegetarian options; look for the red apple icon.

Disneyland Park

In the park itself, each ‘land’ has several places to eat. The following are some spots for sit-down dining. All can be reached at Disney Dining.

Carnation Cafe (Main St; mains under $11; 8am-9pm) Good sandwiches and hot main courses. Try the chicken pot pie or the steak melt.

River Belle Terrace (Frontierland; mains under $12; 10am-3pm Mon-Thu, 9am-9pm Fri-Sun) Kids love the Mickey Mouse pancakes served until 11:30am.

Blue Bayou (New Orleans Square; mains lunch $19-30, dinner $25-35) Surrounded by the ‘bayou’ inside Pirates of the Caribbean, this is the top choice for sit-down dining in Disneyland Park. Famous for its Monte Cristo sandwiches at lunch, and Creole and Cajun specialties at dinner. Make reservations or wait in line.

Disney’s California Adventure

Trattoria at Golden Vine Winery ( 714-781-3463; mains $10-13; 11am-6pm) DCA’s best place for a sit-down lunch serves surprisingly inexpensive and wonderfully tasty Italian pasta, salads and gourmet sandwiches.

Vineyard Room ( 714-781-3463; 3-course prix fixe $43, with wine $67; dinner Fri-Sun) DCA’s white-tablecloth dining room serves contemporary Cal-Italian cuisine in three-course set menus, from polenta and portobello to prosciutto and veal. If you want to splurge but can’t quite swing the Napa Rose, this is a fine backup.

There’s a food court at Pacific Wharf.

Downtown Disney

Most of the restaurants in Downtown Disney are chains that can accommodate large crowds. Call ahead for priority seating or bookings.

Catal & Uva Bar ( 714-774-4442; mains breakfast $7.50-11, lunch $9-40, dinner $17-40; breakfast, lunch & dinner) The chef cooks up a fusion of Californian and Mediterranean cuisines (pappardelle pasta with braised lamb, whitefish with piquillo pepper sauce) at this airy two-story restaurant decorated in a sunny Mediterranean-Provençal style with exposed beams and lemon-colored walls. Sit on the balcony for downtown’s best midrange dining.

La Brea Bakery ( 714-781-3463; mains breakfast $8-13, lunch & dinner $10-22; breakfast, lunch & dinner) For a no-fuss, tasty meal, try the mouth-watering selection of stuffed paninis (sandwiches) and fresh salads at this breezy café best known for its breads and lighter fare. In a hurry? Grab a premade sandwich from the express line.

Naples Ristorante & Pizzeria ( 714-781-3463; $12-27; lunch & dinner) Resist the temptation to swipe a glistening slice of

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