Los Angeles & Southern California - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [208]
Bay Theatre ( 562-431-9988; www.baytheatre.com; 340 Main St) This historic cinema, dating from 1947, revives great films on the big screen, from the Marx Brothers and American Graffiti to Lawrence of Arabia. Movies start on time and there are no previews. Avoid the popcorn.
Hennessey’s Grill ( 562-598-6456; 143 Main St; 7am-1am Mon-Sat, 7am-11pm Sun) For a no-fuss pint of Guinness, grab a stool at the smooth wooden bar at this popular Irish pub that’s perfect for solos or small groups. The place is jam-packed for burgers on two-for-one Tuesdays.
Jazz, folk and bluegrass bands play Wednesday evenings in summer from 6pm to 8pm as part of Summer Concerts in the Park ( 562-799-0179; Eisenhower Park) by the pier at the foot of Main St.
Shopping
Be sure to walk the full three blocks of Main St to see all the little shops.
Endless Summer ( 562-430-9393; 124 Main St) Teenie Wahine, Roxy and Billabong jostle for attention at this bustling store for beach babes that’s packed to the rafters with bikinis, beach bags, shades and sundresses.
Up, Up & Away ( 562-596-7661; 139½ Main St) In addition to kites of every color, you’ll find decorative flags galore. Frogs, lighthouses, dogs with sunglasses – if you want it waving in front of your house, there’s a flag for it here. Badass kites are up the back.
Ocean Stained Glass ( 562-596-6806; 322 Main St) Stained glass isn’t just for churches anymore. From dichroic fused glass jewelry to bright window hangings and unique lamp covers, one-of-a-kind glass gifts are the draw here.
Sideboard ( 562-594-8159; 322 Main St) This place boasts everything from fancy pickles and Turkish olive oils to scone cookers and bamboo cutting boards. Cooking buffs beware: it’s hard to leave this indie culinary shop empty-handed.
Seal Beach Music ( 562-430-0594; 118 Main St) Musicians will dig this great old-fashioned small-town musical instrument shop. The sign says their hours are 11am to 7pm unless they’ve gone fishing.
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SUNSET BEACH
Tucked on a 1-mile strip of coastal real estate between charming Seal Beach and glossy Huntington Beach, this tiny community spits in the face of Orange County conformity. With a high concentration of dive bars, ratty motels and beach bum ’tude, it’s a great place to surf, kayak and drink, but you might not want to, um, live there. There’s no home mail delivery so locals pick up their mail at the post office on PCH in the middle of town.
Activities
For an easy but scenic paddle, kayakers should check out adjacent Huntington Harbor. Stop by OEX Sunset Beach ( 562-592-0800; 16910 Pacific Coast Hwy; kayak rental 2hr/1 day $10/40) for rentals and transportation. Across the street, surfers can rent hard (fiberglass) and soft boards from Bruce Jones Surfboards ( 562-592-2314, 888-592-2314; 16927 Pacific Coast Hwy) at $20 per half day.
Sleeping & Eating
Sunset Beach Bed & Breakfast ( 562-592-1666; www.sunsetbeachbedandbreakfast.com; 16401 Pacific Coast Hwy; r $175-275; ) This two-story B&B is an oasis of floral charm in the middle of somewhat scruffy Sunset Beach. The rooms are decorated with a colonial flair that makes a pleasant backdrop for the wine and cheese offered nightly. Two night minimum in the summer.
Harbor House Café ( 562-592-5404; 16341 Pacific Coast Hwy; mains $7-19) Laptop-carrying businessmen, high school kids and middle-aged couples mix easily under ramshackle walls slathered with movie posters at this 24-hour classic roadside diner. The menu is long, the portions huge and the waitstaff downright friendly.
Roman Cucina ( 562-592-5552; 16595 Pacific Coast Hwy, cnr 20th St; mains $15-30; dinner) For hearty Italian fare, follow the twinkling lights to this trattoria, known as much for its delectable dishes (thick slices of bruschetta, savory salads, huge pastas) as for the ripped waiters serving the food. Don’t miss $5 Martini Mondays.
Drinking & Entertainment
Sunset Beach is the unofficial capital of SoCal dive bars. For a wood-paneled,