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Los Angeles & Southern California - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [217]

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Marina Boat Rentals rents them for less ($80 per hour for an 18-footer), but they’re not as cushy.

CYCLING & SKATING

For beach views, ride a bike along the dedicated path that runs the length of the Balboa Peninsula. Inland, there’s an invigorating scenic loop on the paved road that encircles the Upper Newport Bay and Ecological Reserve (in the afternoon the reserve gets breezy and cool; carry a sweater). There are lots of places to rent bikes, skates and surreys (with the fringe on top) at the Newport and Balboa Piers. Near the Fun Zone, head to Balboa Bikes ‘n’ Beach Stuff ( 949-723-1516; 601 E Balboa Blvd; bikes per hr/day $9/20) on the corner of Palm. Prices may fluctuate, and shop hours are variable, so call ahead to check. Closed on rainy days. For bikes near Newport Pier, visit 15th Street Surf Shop ( 949-673-5810; 103 E 15th St; bikes per hr/day $5/17).

DIVING

There’s terrific diving just south of Newport Beach at the underwater park at Crystal Cove State Park (opposite). Divers can check out reefs, anchors and an old military plane crash site. For rentals and day trips, stop by Beach Cities Scuba Center ( 949-650-5440; www.beachcitiesscuba.com, 4537 W Coast Hwy). Full equipment rental is about $60 per day.

SPAS & MASSAGES

After power shopping at Fashion Island, indulge yourself at Spa Gregorie’s ( 949-644-6672; www.spagregories.com; 200 Newport Center Dr, Suite 100) just south of the mall. A deep-tissue massage is $90 per hour and facials cost $90 to $100 per hour. Once rejuvenated, stroll a few doors down to Muldoon’s for some Irish-style mingling and drinking.

SURFING & SWIMMING

Surfers flock to the breaks at the small jetties surrounding the Newport Pier between 18th and 56th streets. Built in the 1960s after a storm destroyed much of the beach, the jetties are so prized by local surfers that they successfully protested the city’s attempt to fill the spaces between them in 2004. Word of warning: locals can be territorial. For lessons, try Toes on the Nose at nearby Laguna Beach.

As for swimming, families will find a more relaxed atmosphere and calmer waves at the Newport Harbor Beaches along the peninsula, particularly at 10th St and 18th St. The latter, also known as Mother’s Beach, has a lifeguard as well as restrooms and a shower.

Tours

One of the best ways to see Newport Beach is on a boat. Several companies offer narrated harbor tours from near the Balboa Pavilion. Just to the east of the Ferris wheel, the Fun Zone Boat Co ( 949-673-0240) operates 45- or 90-minute trips ($12 and $15) from Balboa Peninsula near the Fun Zone. It’s $7 for kids between the ages of five and 11. Catalina Passenger Service ( 949-673-5245; 400 Main St, Balboa Peninsula) has 45-minute (adult/child $12/7) and 90-minute (adult/child $15/3) cruises that leave hourly from Balboa Pavilion. Both run extra boats during the Christmas Boat Parade for about $20 per person. Make reservations.

Take a whale-watching trip from December 26 through to March; call Davey’s Locker ( 949-673-1434; www.daveyslocker.com; 400 Main St, Balboa Peninsula), also at the Balboa Pavilion, which offers trips for $25/20 per adult/child. It also operates sport-fishing trips out to sea, including half-day ($33) and overnight ($120) excursions. You can also ride with them in the Christmas Boat Parade ($18/14 per adult/child).

Festivals & Events

For details on local events, contact the visitors bureau Click here.

The week before Christmas brings thousands of spectators to Newport Harbor to watch the nightly Christmas Boat Parade, a tradition that began in 1919. The 2 ½-hour parade of lighted and decorated boats begins at 6:30pm. You can watch it all for free from the Fun Zone or Balboa Island or on a harbor tour.

Sleeping

Rates listed are for high season. They drop by as much as 50% in winter.

Newport Channel Inn ( 949-642-3030, 800-255-8614; www.newportchannelinn.com; 6030 W Coast Hwy; r $119-289; wi-fi) Cyclists love the proximity to the beach bike path – it’s just across PCH from this spotless two-story motel. Other perks include large rooms, a

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