Los Angeles & Southern California - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [230]
San Juan Capistrano is also where the legend-ary swallows return each year to nest – on March 19, the feast of Saint Joseph – after wintering in South America. Their flight covers about 15,000 miles. The Festival of the Swallows is the highlight of the mission’s active year-round events schedule.
One block west, next to the Capistrano train depot, the Los Rios Historic District is a cutesy assemblage of 31 historic cottages and adobes that now mostly house cafés and gift shops. To see furnishings and decor in an 1870s-era home as well as vintage photographs of the area, stop by the O’Neill Museum (31831 Los Rios St). You can pick up a walking tour guide of Historic Downtown San Juan Capistrano at most of the stores in the downtown area.
EATING
There are a lot of restaurants within walking distance of the mission. Most are pretty good, but here are a few favorites.
Sarducci’s Capistrano Depot ( 949-493-3593; 26701 Verdugo St; mains $10-16; 8am-9pm Sun-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat) Watch the Pacific Surfliner glide into town as you nosh on tasty salads, sandwiches and pastas on a courtyard patio right beside the train tracks at this one-time depot. Despite its politically incorrect name, the Oriental salad is delish.
Cedar Creek Inn ( 949-240-2229; 26860 Ortega Hwy; mains lunch $11-18, mains dinner $11-30; lunch & dinner) For floral-framed views of the mission, request a table on the brick-lined patio. With its baskets of flowers, wooden terraces and snazzy umbrellas, it makes for an inspiring setting. Heaping salads look to be most popular at lunch. Monte Cristo sandwiches are also served.
Ramos House Café ( 949-443-1342; 31752 Los Rios St; mains $12-17; breakfast & lunch Tue-Sun) Famous for earthy comfort food flavored with herbs from the garden round back, Ramos House is the best spot for breakfast or lunch near the mission. To find it, walk across the railroad tracks at the end of Verdugo St and turn right. Burlap tablecloths, passing trains and disconcertingly enthusiastic waitresses (‘Oh my gosh, the duck hash is awesome!’) add color.
ENTERTAINMENT
Believe it or not, there’s more to this town than missions and swallows.
Coach House ( 949-496-8930; www.thecoachhouse.com; 33157 Camino Capistrano) This well-known entertainment venue features a roster of local and regional rock and alternative bands; expect a cover of $10 to $35, depending on who’s playing. Recent performers include Little Feat, The Subdudes, Suzanne Vega and The Marshall Tucker Band.
Camino Real Playhouse ( 949-489-8082; www.caminorealplayhouse.org; 31776 El Camino Real) This small but passionate playhouse has an eclectic annual schedule that includes the ShowOff! International Playwright Festival, Shakespeare Under the Stars and the 1890s-style Western Melodrama series where audience participation is encouraged.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
From Laguna Beach, take OCTA bus 1 south to K-Mart Plaza, then connect to bus 191/A in the direction of Mission Viejo, which drops you near the mission ($2.50, one hour).
The Amtrak depot is one block south and west of the mission; it would be perfectly reasonable to arrive by train from LA or San Diego in time for lunch, visit the mission and be back in the city for dinner.
Drivers should exit I-5 at Ortega Hwy and head west for about 0.25 miles.
Dana Point
Dana Point was once called ‘the only romantic spot on the coast.’ Too bad that quote dates from seafarer Richard Dana’s voyage here in the 1830s. For the last few decades, Dana Point has been stuck, never mustering the same recognition as its more charismatic neighbors to the north. This situation may be partly due to the