Los Angeles & Southern California - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [280]
Trattoria I Trulli (Map; 760-943-6800; 830 S Coast Hwy 101; mains $9-20) Country-style seating indoors and great people watching on the sidewalk. Just one taste of the homemade gnocchi, ravioli or lasagna, salmon in brandy mustard sauce or pollo 101 (chicken stuffed with cheese, spinach and artichokes in mushroom sauce), and you’ll know why this mom-and-pop Italian trattoria is always packed. Reservations recommended.
Q’ero (Map; 760-753-9050; 540 S Coast Hwy 101; mains lunch $7-15, dinner $19-26; lunch & dinner Tue-Sat) The flavors of Peru tempt from this atmospheric storefront. Try small plates like ceviche or papa rellena (potato inside ground beef), or mains like lomo saltado of Kobe beef or aji gallina (chicken in toasted walnut and chili sauce). Reservations recommended at dinner.
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CARLSBAD
pop 78,500
Most visitors come to Carlsbad for Legoland and head right back out, and that’s too bad because they’ve missed the charming, intimate downtown with shopping, dining and beaching. It’s bordered by I-5 and Carlsbad Blvd, which run north–south and are connected by Carlsbad Village Dr running east–west. The Visitor Information Center (Map; 760-434-6093; www.carlsbadca.org; 400 Carlsbad Village Dr) is housed in the original 1887 Santa Fe train depot.
Carlsbad came into being with the railroad in the 1880s. John Frazier, an early homesteader, sank a well and found water that had a high mineral content, supposedly identical to that of spa water in Karlsbad, Bohemia (now the Czech Republic). He built a grand spa hotel, which prospered until the 1930s. That Queen Anne–style building is now Neiman’s Restaurant & Bar (Map; 760-729-4131; 2978 Carlsbad Blvd), though there are better restaurants in town.
If you’ve come looking for Carlsbad Caverns, you’re outta luck. Those are in New Mexico.
Sights & Activities
LEGOLAND CALIFORNIA
Modeled after the original Legoland in Denmark, Legoland California (Map; 760-918-5346; www.lego.com/legoland/california; 1 Legoland Dr; adult/child $57/44; 10am-5pm; ) is an enchanting fantasy environment built entirely of those little colored plastic building blocks that many of us grew up with. Highlights include Miniland, in which the skylines of major metropolitan cities have been spectacularly recreated entirely of Lego. At Water Works, kids play with water and music. There’s also face-painting, boat rides and several roller coasters scaled down for kids. Compared with some of the bigger, flashier parks, such as Disneyland and SeaWorld, it’s all rather low-key and far less commercial – though there are plenty of opportunities to buy Lego. At least it sparks creativity. The park is best for pre-adolescent kids. If you have toddlers, pick up the brochure ‘What to do When You’re Two’ for age-appropriate activities.
From I-5, take the Legoland/Cannon Rd exit. From downtown Carlsbad or downtown San Diego, take the Coaster to Carlsbad Village Station, from where bus 344 goes straight to the park.
Check the website for further details on extended hours in July and August, and closures from September to May; opening hours can vary hugely during these months. Parking costs $10.
CARLSBAD RANCH
The 50-acre flower fields of Carlsbad Ranch (Map; 760-431-0352; http://visit.theflowerfields.com; adult/child $9/5; 9am-6pm early Mar–mid-May) are ablaze in a sea of carmine, saffron and the snow-white blossom of ranunculuses. The fields are two blocks east of I-5; take the Palomar Airport Rd exit.
BATIQUITOS LAGOON
One of the last remaining tidal wetlands in California, Batiquitos Lagoon separates Carlsbad from Encinitas. A self-guided tour lets you explore area plants, including the prickly pear cactus, coastal sage scrub and eucalyptus trees, as well as lagoon birds, such as the great heron and the snowy egret. One of the artificial islands in the lagoon