Los Angeles & Southern California - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [290]
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SIGHTS
Palm Springs
PALM SPRINGS AERIAL TRAMWAY
A highlight of Palm springs, this cable car (Map; 888-515-8726, 760-325-1449; www.pstramway.com; 1 Tramway Rd; adult/child/senior $22/15/20, after 3pm $19/12/19; 10am-10:30pm Mon-Fri, 8am-10:30pm Sat & Sun) rotates ever so slightly as it climbs nearly 6000 vertical feet, from the desert floor up the San Jacinto Mountains, in about 14 minutes. You ascend through visibly different vegetation zones, from the Valley Station (2643ft) to the Mountain Station (8516ft). It’s 30°F to 40°F cooler as you step out into pine forest at the top, so bring some warm clothing – the trip up is said to be the equivalent (in temperature) of driving from Mexico to Canada.
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SUM-SUM-SUMMERTIME
The Coachella Valley used to clear out between June and September, although recently it’s become more of a year-round community. Still, many lodgings and restaurants lower their prices as the mercury rises.
Other sights, activities and restaurants operate on reduced hours or close altogether in warmer months, and these can vary from year to year. If traveling in summer, always phone ahead to avoid disappointment.
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The Mountain Station at the top of the tramway has an observation area and a theater showing films on the tramway and the park, plus a lounge and restaurants.
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PALM SPRINGS IN TWO DAYS
Day One
We always find it easier to get to know a place by starting with one piece of it, and Palm Springs is all about mid-century architecture. After breakfast in your modernist hotel (Click here for suggestions), spend the morning with a guided or self-guided tour of the city’s signature style. Soon you’ll have figured your way around the city center. Tyler’s makes a casual lunch break over burgers, or try Spencer’s, which is more chichi. Either way, you’re not far from the shops on Palm Canyon Dr and the Palm Springs Art Museum. Return to the hotel to dip in the pool and take a rest before dinner at splashy Wang’s, followed by a show at the Palm Springs Follies or Copykatz. Then stop at Melvyn’s for old-style cocktails or Citron for new-style ones.
Day Two
After breakfast, drop by Jensen’s Finest Foods or Aspen Mills to pick up a gourmet sandwich for your lunchtime excursion. If it’s winter, grab that parka you thought you wouldn’t have to use on your trip to California (don’t worry: you won’t need it in summer), and ascend 6000 feet via the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway (above), where snow-hiking and cross-country skiing are just some of the activities available. Depending on when you return to earth, commune with the flora and fauna of this arid climate at the Living Desert Zoo & Gardens (Click here; about half an hour away in Palm Desert), or at the quaint Moorten Botanical Gardens, which is closer to town. Again, it’s back to the pool before dinner. Tonight make it Mexican, at El Mirasol - the margaritas will make you mellow as you spend the evening gazing at the stars over the hot tub at the inn.
To add a Day Three, pick up lunch and go explore Joshua Tree National Park.
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Take time (a day or two if you’re a backcountry enthusiast) at the top to enjoy the Mt San Jacinto Wilderness State Park. There are 54 miles of trails, including a nontechnical route up to the San Jacinto peak (10,804ft), for hiking in summer, and snowshoeing and cross-country skiing in winter. There are also several primitive campgrounds (free). Anyone heading into the backcountry (even for a few hours) must register for a wilderness permit at the ranger station just outside the Mountain Station; for information and advance permits, contact the state park rangers ( 909-659-2607, 909-659-2117). Pick up maps, books and gifts at the State Park Visitor Information Center at the Mountain Station.