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In keeping with the green-soup theme, the rooms at the two-story Pea Soup Andersen’s Best Western Inn ( 805-688-3216, 800-732-7687; www.peasoupandersens.com; 51 E Hwy 246; r $121; ) are accessed by pea-green doors. Some of Solvang’s Scandinavian flair spills into the ‘quaint village’ decor but the big draw is the central courtyard where kids go nuts for the miniputting green and pool. First-floor rooms with patio doors onto the courtyard are fun for families; upstairs rooms are quieter. Rooms are a bit on the older side but clean with comfy beds. Cheaper than most lodging in Solvang, 3 miles east.

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SOLVANG

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My God, captain, we’ve hit a windmill. Which can only mean one thing in central California Wine Country: Solvang, a kitschy faux-Danish village about 35 miles north of Santa Barbara, where windmills are part of the skyline. Founded in 1911 by Danish-American settlers from the Midwest, the town holds tight to its Danish heritage – or at least its stereotypical images. In fact, with its knickknack stores, cutesy motels and Danish-style bakeries, the town is almost as sticky-sweet as the syrupy pastries foisted upon the wandering hordes looking for a point to it all. And what is the point to it all? Solvang’s kitschy charms are so utterly unique that they make the town worth visiting – at least once.

Beyond pastries, Solvang is a good jumping-off point for oenophiles exploring the Wine Country and outdoor enthusiasts seeking adventure in Los Padres National Forest. The town is well known in bicycling circles for the Solvang Century, a 100-mile race through surrounding countryside in March.

From Santa Barbara, follow Hwy 154 north to Hwy 246 west, continuing west to the windmills. You can reserve rooms through the visitors bureau ( 805-688-6144; 800-468-6765; www.solvangusa.com; 1511a Mission Dr). For local guides and trail maps, stop by the Book Loft ( 805-688-6010; 1680 Mission Dr), a fabulous indie bookstore where the helpful staff can point you toward the right trail guide, latest best-seller or one-of-a-kind used book. Enjoy wi-fi with your java at the Bulldog Café ( 805-686-9770) next door. There’s a satellite visitors center (1639 Copenhagen Dr) in the center of town.

Sights & Activities

Half the fun of Solvang is wandering among the kitschy shops and bakeries downtown, which cover about three square blocks south of Mission Dr between Atterdag Rd and Alisal Rd. If you remember childhood fairy tales with fondness, stop by the tiny Hans Christian Andersen Museum ( 805-688-2052; 1680 Mission Dr), above the Book Loft, where original letters and 1st-edition copies of the Danish storyteller’s books are on display. The Elverhoj Museum of History & Art ( 805-686-1211; www.elverhoj.org; 1624 Elverhoj Way; requested donation $3; 1-4pm Wed & Thu, noon-4pm Fri-Sun) has exhibits on Danes in America and Solvang’s Danish history.

Unwind with a Pure Indulgence massage and reflexology treatment ($69) at De-stress Café ( 805-693-8776; 1636 Copenhagen Dr), a day spa across the street from the visitors bureau. Newly remodeled Hadsten House Inn & Spa (see below) opened a day spa in late 2007.

Sleeping

Hadsten House Inn & Spa ( 805-688-3210, 800-457-5373; www.hadstenhouse.com; 1450 Mission Dr; r $237-336) Why does my luxury inn and spa look like a dumpy two-story motel? Because brand new Hadsten House revamped a former motel property, updating just about everything except the uninspiring exterior. But once inside your room? Ahhh. The decor is surprisingly plush. Flatscreen TVs, triple sheets, comfy duvets, L’Occitane bath products – it’s all quite refined. At the time of writing, the day spa was about to open. The minivineyard on the front lawn is a nice touch.

Eating

Paula’s Pancake House ( 805-688-2867; 1531 Mission Dr; mains $6-9; breakfast & lunch) This thatched-roofed, breakfast-focused restaurant is where the crowds congregate for Danish pancakes, Danish sausages and the not-so-Danish California omelette with avocado.

Solvang Restaurant ( 805-688-4645; 1672 Copenhagen Dr; mains