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Los Angeles & Southern California - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [338]

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primary departure point for Channel Island trips, may not be the most enchanting coastal city, but this town has its charms, especially in its ungentrified historic downtown along Main St, north of Hwy 101 via Seaward Ave. Here, you’ll find a terrific assortment of antique and thrift shops, as well as the town’s visitor center ( 805-483-6214, 800-333-2989; www.ventura-usa.com; 89 S California St, near E Santa Clara, Suite C; 8:30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat, 10am-4pm Sun).

Sights

Ventura’s roots go back to the 1782 Mission San Buenaventura ( 805-643-4318; 211 E Main St; admission $2; 10am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat, 10am-4pm Sun), the ninth and last mission founded by Padre Junipero Serra. The restored church is still home to an active congregation. A stroll around the complex leads you through a courtyard and a small museum, past statues of saints and 250-year-old paintings of the stations of the cross. On Sundays, the best time to visit is from 10am to noon, which is the time between services.

Archaeology fans and history buffs will enjoy the free Albinger Archaeological Museum ( 805-648-5823; 113 E Main St; 10am-4pm Wed-Sun Jun-Aug, to 2pm Sep-May) just west of the mission. The museum displays an astounding array of artifacts culled from within the surrounding one-block area. The artifacts date from 3500 years ago and include Chumash, Spanish, Mexican American and Chinese relics – all reflective of the various communities inhabiting the block over the years. Outside, you can see the mission’s original foundations.

Across the street, the Museum of Ventura County ( 805-653-0323; www.venturamuseum.org; 100 E Main St; adult/child/senior $4/1/3; 10am-5pm Tue-Sun; ) has an eclectic mix of exhibits. Highlights include quarter-life-sized historical figures, dressed in period costumes (by George Stuart), and an exhibit tracing Ventura’s history complete with Chumash baskets, 1920s-era wooden surfboards, and a brief description of the now-endangered California condor that’s accompanied by a massive stuffed specimen, wings outspread. A chihuahua wouldn’t stand a chance.

Ventura Harbor (southwest of Hwy 101 via Harbor Blvd) is the departure point for boats to the Channel Islands. Even if you don’t embark on an island adventure, the Channel Islands National Park Visitor Center ( 805-658-5730; 1901 Spinnaker Dr; 8:30am-5pm) has a smart natural-history display, a touch tank with sharks and a three-story lookout perfect for viewing the islands (on a clear day, at least). On Saturday and Sunday, at 11am and 3pm, rangers lead interpretive programs on tide pools, a terrific primer on California marine ecology.

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THRIFTING IN VENTURA

There’s kick-ass thrifting in downtown Ventura. Just take note that the stores are named after the charities benefited – and often presented in blunt terms. Most cluster on Main St west of California St.

CAAN – Child Abuse & Neglect ( 805-643-5956; 340 E Main) You’ll find rack and racks of pants, shirts and dresses inside this massive space, plus plenty of pots and pans.

Coalition Thrift Store – Battered Women ( 805-643-4411; 270 E Main St) Loads of clothes to sift through – without the heavy crowds.

Retarded Children’s Thrift Shop ( 805-485-6690, 800-228-1413; 265 E Main St). The best and most well known. The hordes flipping through the racks can be daunting, but there are some great deals, especially three-for-one Wednesdays.

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Sleeping

Bella Magiore Inn ( 805-652-0277, 800-523-8479; 67 S California St; r $75-180; ) The downtown location of this 1921 hotel – just off Main St – is great: within walking distance of the harbor and many shops and restaurants. The simple rooms aren’t fancy but have good character; quieter rooms are in the back.

Clocktower Inn ( 805-652-0141, 800-727-1027; www.clocktowerinn.com; 181 E Santa Clara St; r $129-159; ) For quick access to the Mission and museum as well as the beach, this small modern (c 1985) hotel is an option. The rooms, with Navaho-style rustic furnishings, are a bit worn but clean.

Eating

Despite its dowdy appearance, Ventura has

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