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Los Angeles & Southern California - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [340]

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S Signal St; 9am-4pm Mon-Fri). The Ojai Library ( 805-646-1634; 111 E Ojai Ave; 10am-8pm Mon-Thu, noon-5pm Fri-Sun) will give you a temporary pass for internet access at one of its computers. During the week, pick up information on camping and hiking in the Los Padres National Forest at the Ojai Ranger Station ( 805-646-4348; 1190 E Ojai Ave; 8am-4:30pm Mon-Fri) On weekends, stop by the Wheeler Gorge Visitor Center.

Sights & Activities

The 9-mile Ojai Valley Trail, converted from old railway tracks, is popular with walkers, joggers, cyclists and equestrians. It links with Ventura’s Foster Park.

Ojai is famous for its annual Ojai Music Festival ( 805-646-2053; www.ojaifestival.org), a longstanding classical-music fest held in early June.

SPAS

For the ultimate in relaxation, spend a day – or a week – enjoying the services of Spa Ojai ( 888-772-6524; www.ojairesort.com; 905 Country Club Rd) at Ojai Valley Inn & Spa (right). A relaxation massage costs $140, a mother-of-pearl facial costs $170, and a sounds-like-you-should-eat-it Moroccan Mint Sugar Scrub costs $75. Day-spa services are available to those not overnighting at the inn. Pampering is a little less frou-frou at the easy-going Oaks at Ojai ( 805-646-5573, 800-753-6257; www.oaksspa.com; 122 E Ojai Ave) – just be sure to turn off your cell phone. The rates at this destination spa include accommodations, low-fat meals and use of the sauna, pool and other facilities. À la carte fees apply for certain additional spa treatments. Weekend rates range from $190 per person per night for a lodge room to $330 per person per night for a minispa suite. Day-trippers can unwind in a hobbitlike cottage at the Day Spa of Ojai ( 805-640-1100; www.thedayspa.com; 1434 E Ojai Ave), where massages start at $80 for one hour. The signature body wrap is $190 for a two-hour treatment.

Sleeping

Blue Iguana Inn ( 805-646-5277; www.blueiguanainn.com; 11794 N Ventura Ave; r $149, ste $189-249; ) If you wanna tie-one-onna with a bright-blue iguana, then this funky, southwestern inn is the place to start. Artsy iguanas lurk everywhere – on the motel’s adobe walls, in the parking lot, and anywhere else that hip amphibian style might prompt a smile. The staff is helpful, the rooms are unique, and the pool is a friendly central gathering place. For a more romantic atmosphere, try sister property Emerald Iguana Inn ( 805-646-5277; 11794 N Ventura Ave), just north of downtown.

Ojai Valley Inn & Spa ( 805-646-5511, 800-422-6524; www.ojairesort.com; 905 Country Club Rd; ) At the extreme other end of the spectrum, this luxury resort on the western end of town has manicured gardens, golf courses and a fabulous spa. Golfers and spa-goers should check online for money-saving packages.

The knotty-pine-paneled rooms and cottages at the Ojai Rancho Inn ( 805-646-1434, 800-799-1881; www.ojairanchoinn.com; 615 West Ojai Ave; r $125-140, cottages $165-205; ), formerly the Rose Garden Inn, are sturdy with a relaxing country-style vibe, while the Best Western Casa Ojai ( 805-646-8175, 800-255-8175; www.ojaiinn.com; 1302 E Ojai Ave; r $140-180; ) has better-than-average motel rooms. Free cookies at check-in.

Eating

Boccali’s ( 805-646-6116; 3277 Ojai Ave (Santa Paula Rd); mains $9-18; lunch Wed-Sun, dinner daily) Beloved Boccali’s is a mom-and-pop, homestyle-Italian roadside café where patio picnic tables are backed by rural mountain views worthy of a Renaissance master. The warm-off-the-vine tomato salad – from the restaurant’s gardens – is fantastic; pair it with hot garlic bread for a great meal. There’s homemade lemonade and towering strawberry shortcake too. No credit cards. East of town.

Ranch House ( 805-646-2360; S Lomita Ave; brunch $22, dinner mains $21-33; dinner Tue-Sun, brunch Sun) Hold hands by candlelight in the lush gardens of Ojai’s top choice for white-tablecloth contemporary Euro-Cal cooking. There’s Sunday brunch too.

Seafresh Seafood ( 805-646-7747; 533 E Ojai Ave; mains $8-26; 11am-9pm) Right on the main drag, this is the local spot for seafood.

Shopping

Shoppers amble through Arcade

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