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Originally inhabited by the Chumash and Gabrieleño peoples (who were taken to the mainland missions in the early 1800s), the islands were subsequently taken over by sheep ranchers and the US Navy until the mid-1970s, when conservation efforts began. San Miguel, Santa Rosa, Anacapa and Santa Barbara Islands are now owned by the National Park Service (NPS; 805-658-5730; www.nps.gov/chis), which also owns about a quarter of Santa Cruz Island.

Human beings have left a heavy footprint. Livestock overgrazed, causing erosion, and rabbits fed on native plants. The US military even practiced bombing techniques on San Miguel. Deep-sea fishing has caused the destruction of three-quarters of the islands’ kelp forests, which play a key part in the marine ecosystem.

Despite past abuses, the future isn’t all bleak. Brown pelicans – decimated by the effects of DDT and reduced to one surviving chick on Anacapa in 1970 – have rebounded. On San Miguel Island vegetation returned – albeit 50 years later – after overgrazing sheep were removed. On Santa Cruz Island, the Park Service and the Nature Conservancy have implemented plans to restore natural vegetation and hope the recovery efforts will have the same success as those on Santa Miguel.

By boat, Anacapa and Santa Cruz are within an hour of Ventura and two hours off Santa Barbara. Both have stellar hiking and make do-able day trips:

Ventura to Anacapa 12 miles

Santa Barbara to Anacapa 40 miles

Ventura to Santa Cruz 22 miles

Santa Barbara to Santa Cruz 30 miles

Park information is available at the Channel Islands National Park Visitors Center.

Sights & Activities

Anacapa, which is actually three separate islets, gives a memorable introduction to the islands’ ecology and is the best option for those short on time. Boats dock on the East Island and after a short climb you’ll find 2 miles of trails offering fantastic views of island flora, a historic lighthouse, and the rocky Middle and West Islands. Kayaking, diving, tide-pooling and seal-watching are popular activities here. After checking out the small museum, ask about ranger-led programs; occasionally park rangers scuba dive with a video camera, broadcasting images on a monitor you can watch on the dock.

Santa Cruz, the largest island at 96 sq miles, has two mountain ranges with peaks reaching 2450ft (Mt Diablo). The western side of Santa Cruz is owned and managed by the Nature Conservancy – 76% of the island – and can only be accessed with a permit. But the remaining eastern section, managed by the NPS, packs a wallop – ideal for those wanting an action-packed day trip or a slightly more relaxing overnight trip. You can swim, snorkel, scuba dive and kayak. There are excellent hikes too, including the 1-mile climb to captivating Cavern Point. Views don’t get much better than from this lovely spot. For a longer jaunt, continue another couple of easy miles – mostly along scenic bluffs – to Potato Harbor. The Scorpion Canyon–Island Jay hike is also good. Starting in the upper campground, scramble across the old stream bed, then head steeply uphill to the old oil well for fantastic views. Connect with Smugglers Rd atop the hill and loop back to Scorpion Anchorage. The strenuous middle section of this trail is best not attempted at midday – there’s little shade on the uphill.

The Chumash called Santa Rosa ‘Wima’ (Driftwood) because of the logs that often came ashore here. They built plank canoes called tomols from the logs. This island has rare Torrey pines, sandy beaches and nearly 200 bird species. There’s beach and canyon hiking but high winds can make swimming, diving and kayaking tough for any but the most experienced.

San Miguel, the most remote of the four northern islands, guarantees solitude and a wilderness experience, but it’s often windy and shrouded in fog. Some sections are off-limits to prevent disruption of the fragile ecosystem.

Santa Barbara, only 1 sq mile in size and the smallest of the islands, is a treasure trove of riches for nature lovers. Big,