Los Angeles & Southern California - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [80]
SELF-REALIZATION FELLOWSHIP LAKE SHRINE
No matter what your religious persuasion is, any negative vibes just seem to disappear while strolling these paradisiacal grounds (Map; 310-454-4114; www.yogananda-srf.org/temples/lakeshrine; 17190 Sunset Blvd; admission free; 9am-4:30pm Tue-Sat, 12:30-4:30pm Sun; ). Paths meander around a spring-fed lake and past clumps of flowers and swaying palms to a windmill-turned-chapel, where George Harrison’s memorial was held, and a shrine containing some of the ashes of Mahatma Ghandi. The fellowship was founded in 1920 by charismatic yogi Paramahansa Yogananda and blends traditions of Christian and Eastern religions. Overlooking the garden is the hilltop temple, crowned by a gilded lotus, where anyone can attend the lectures, meditations and services.
EAMES HOUSE & STUDIO
The striking Eames House & Studio (Map; 310-459-9663; www.eamesfoundation.org; 203 Chautauqua Blvd; suggested donation $5; 10am-4pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat; ), built in 1949 by Charles and Ray Eames, resembles a Mondrian painting in 3-D. It’s still used by the Eames family, but with at least 48-hour advance reservations you can study the exterior, walk around the garden and peek through the window into the kitchen and living room.
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GETTYGATE
It should have been a moment as triumphant and glorious as a Dionysian wedding depicted on a Grecian vase. Yet, the reopening of the Getty Villa in January 2006 had all the earmarks of a Greek tragedy. The world-famous institution found itself embroiled in an epic controversy about the true origin of dozens of its ancient treasures, including a famous statue of Aphrodite. Had some of them been looted from Italian archaeological digs and illegally spirited out of the country by shady art dealers? The Italian government seemed to think so and, in 2005, indicted Marion True, the Getty’s former head of antiquities, alleging that she conspired with European art dealers and knowingly acquired stolen pieces. One of the dealers, Giacomo Medici, has already been sentenced to 10 years in prison and was fined €10 million. At press time, the Italian government had dropped civil charges against True and accused coconspirator Robert Hecht, but the criminal trial was still ongoing. Even if convicted, it’s highly unlikely that either will serve jail time; True because she’s an American citizen and Hecht because – at age 88 – he’s considered too old.
Both maintain their innocence but, if anything, the case has firmly trained the spotlight on the ‘don’t-ask-don’t-tell’ practice that’s long been commonplace in the art world. Although there are international laws in place against the illegal trafficking of cultural property, they are rarely enforced. That’s why ‘Gettygate’ has made other museum curators quite nervous. The Italians have already come knocking on the doors of the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston and the Metropolitan Museum in New York, both of which will be returning several artifacts.
And so will the Getty. In August 2007, Getty director Michael Brand, agreed to send 40 of the 46 disputed pieces back to Italy, including Aphrodite (which will remain on display until 2010, however). The move will leave major holes in the collection, which the Italian government agreed to plug with long-term loans.
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While here also have a look at the adjacent 1949 Entenza House (Map; 205 Chautauqua Blvd), a huge gleaming-white jumble by Charles Eames and Eero Saarinen; the best view is across the wall from the Eames House garden. Richard Neutra designed the nearby Bailey House (Map; 219 Chautauqua Blvd), which was built from 1946 to 1948.
Santa Monica
Santa Monica is the belle by the beach, the poshest among LA’s seaside cities, hemmed in by luxe beachfront hotels and sprinkled with Kobe-burger restaurants and $100–T-shirt boutiques. It wasn’t always so. A few years ago, that person talking to himself was probably