Los Angeles & Southern California - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [96]
Across the street, the 1929 Eastern Columbia Building (Map; 849 S Broadway) is a strikingly turquoise art deco tower that originally housed a clothing store and was recently converted into luxury lofts by the Kor Group, which also operates Maison 140 and other fashionable hotels. Note the gilded sunburst pattern above the entrance and on the tower’s clock face. One-bedroom apartments rent for $3000 a month; Johnny Depp allegedly bought the penthouse for a cool $2 million.
Finally, there’s the 1927 Spanish Gothic United Artists Theater (Map; 818-240-8151, 800-338-3030; www.drgenescott.com; 933 S Broadway) whose construction was bankrolled by Mary Pickford, Douglas Fairbanks Sr and Charlie Chaplin. It’s long been the ‘cathedral’ of the late televangelist Dr Gene Scott (look for the ‘Jesus Saves’ sign on the rooftop), now run by his wife Melissa. The only way to get inside is by calling the ‘voice of god’ to ask for a free reservation for a Sunday service.
LITTLE TOKYO
Little Tokyo swirls with outdoor shopping malls, Buddhist temples, public art, traditional gardens and some of the most authentic sushi bars, izakayas (taverns) and shabu shabu parlors in town. The community can trace its roots back to the 1880s, but only a few historic buildings survive along E 1st St; in 1996, they were placed on the National Register of Historic Places. Stop by the Little Tokyo Koban (Map; 213-613-1911; 307 E 1st St; 9am-6pm Mon-Sat) for maps and information. Parking is free for the first hour in the garage at 333 S Alameda St and there are inexpensive lots and metered street parking on 2nd St east of Central Ave. DASH bus A (DD on weekends) comes through here as well and so will the Gold Line extension when completed in 2009.
A great first stop on your Little Tokyo exploration is the Japanese American National Museum (JANM; Map; 213-625-0414; www.janm.org; 369 E 1st St; adult/senior/student/child under 6 $8/5/4/free; 11am-5pm Tue, Wed & Fri-Sun, to 8pm Thu), the country’s first museum dedicated to the Japanese immigrant experience. You’ll be moved by galleries dealing with the painful chapter of the WWII internment camps and charmed by such exhibits as the Star Trek uniform of actor George Takei. Afterwards, relax in the tranquil garden, browse the well-stocked gift shop or grab a bite at the excellent café. Also ask about drumming workshops for kids and other fun events. Admission is free on Thursdays from 5pm to 8pm, and all day on the third Thursday of each month.
Arty types can pop next door to peruse the cutting-edge and often provocative exhibits at the Geffen Contemporary at MOCA (Map; 213-626-6222; www.moca.org; 152 N Central Ave; adult/student & senior/child under 12 $8/5/free, free 5-8pm Thu; 11am-5pm Mon, 11am-8pm Thu, 11am-5pm Fri, 11am-6pm Sat & Sun). A branch of MOCA Grand Ave, it presents mostly conceptual art and large-scale installations in a police garage converted by Frank Gehry. Tours (free with admission) run at noon, 1pm and 2pm.
The funny-looking tower across 1st St from the JANM is a yagura, a traditional fire lookout tower typically found in rural Japan. It’s the gateway to the Japanese Village Plaza (Map; 213-620-8861; btwn 1st & 2nd Sts), a modern outdoor mall with gift shops, restaurants and good people-watching. A few steps west, tucked into a hidden courtyard away from the street, is the Koyasan Buddhist Temple (Map; 213-624-1267; 342 E 1st St).
Little Tokyo’s main cultural hub is the Japanese American Cultural & Community Center (Map; 213-628-2725; www.jaccc.org; 244 S San Pedro St; admission free; noon-5pm Tue-Fri, 11am-4pm Sat & Sun; ). The gallery spotlights local artists and there’s also a library and a gift shop. With bamboo and a gurgling stream, the hidden James Irvine Garden (Map; admission free; 9am-5pm) is great to chill in. Reach it by taking the elevator to the ‘B’ level