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By Root 753 0

shallots. By themselves, these are irresistible; when combined with tender greens they create an alluring contrast in flavor and texture. Furthermore, the oil in which the shallots have been fried is a great addition to the greens and, in the days following, to many other dishes.

½ cup or more neutral oil, like grapeseed or corn

5 large shallots (½ pound or more), thinly sliced

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 pound spinach

1. Put the oil in a small to medium saucepan or narrow skillet at least an inch deep. Turn the heat to high and wait a few minutes; the oil should reach 350°F. (If you do not have a frying thermometer, just put a couple of slices of shallot in there; when the oil around them bubbles vigorously, it’s ready.)

2. Add the shallots and cook, adjusting the heat so that the bubbling is vigorous but not explosive. Cook, stirring, until the shallots begin to darken, 8 to 12 minutes. As soon as they turn golden brown, remove them immediately with a slotted spoon—be careful, because overcooking at this point will burn the shallots. Drain the shallots on paper towels and sprinkle with salt and pepper; they’ll keep for a couple of hours this way.

3. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it. When it is ready, add the spinach and cook until it wilts, about 1 minute. Remove the spinach with a strainer or slotted spoon and plunge it into a large bowl filled with ice water to stop the cooking. When it’s cool, drain and chop. (You can store the spinach, covered and refrigerated, for up to a couple of days if you like.)

4. Take 1 tablespoon of the shallot oil and place it in a skillet; turn the heat to medium-high. Turn the spinach into this skillet and cook, stirring frequently and breaking up any clumps, until the spinach is hot, about 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and serve, topped with the crisp shallots.

CURRIED TOFU WITH SOY SAUCE

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

TIME: 30 MINUTES

GIVEN THAT TOFU itself does not add much body to a dish, you need a substantial sauce, like one with canned coconut milk as its base, to make up for the tofu’s blandness. Like heavy cream, coconut milk will thicken a sauce, making it luxurious in almost no time.

The onion must be browned carefully and thoroughly: keep the heat high enough so that this happens in a timely fashion—it should take about ten minutes and in no case more than fifteen—but not so high that the onion burns. I call this level of heat “medium-high,” but all stoves are different; the oil should be bubbling but not smoking, and you must stir the onion every minute or so.

2 tablespoons peanut, corn, or grapeseed oil

1 large onion, minced

1 tablespoon curry powder, or to taste

1 cup roughly chopped walnuts or unsalted cashews

One 12- to 14-ounce can unsweetened coconut milk

1 block firm tofu (about 1 pound), cut into roughly ¾-inch cubes

2 tablespoons soy sauce, or to taste

Salt and cayenne

1. Put the oil in a 10- or 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. A minute later, add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until the edges of the onion pieces are well browned, about 10 minutes (for best flavor, the onions must brown but not burn). Add the curry powder and cook, stirring, for 30 seconds or so; add the nuts and cook, stirring occasionally, for about a minute.

2. Add the coconut milk. Stir, bring to a boil, and reduce the heat to medium. Add the tofu, stir, and let the tofu heat through for about 3 minutes. Stir in the soy sauce, then taste and adjust the seasoning with soy sauce, salt, and/or cayenne as necessary. Serve.

SIMMERED TOFU WITH GROUND PORK (MA-PO TOFU)

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

TIME: 20 MINUTES

THIS IS NOT a stir-fry but a simmered dish, easy and fast. The cooking time totals about ten minutes, and the preparation time is about the same, so be sure to start the rice first.

1 tablespoon peanut or other oil

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1 tablespoon minced peeled fresh ginger

⅛ teaspoon hot red pepper flakes, or to taste

¼ pound ground pork

½ cup chopped scallion, green part only

½ cup stock or