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2. Meanwhile, cook the oil and garlic together in a large, deep skillet over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until the garlic is golden; start the pasta in the same water as you used for the cauliflower.

3. When the garlic is ready, add the cauliflower and bread crumbs to the skillet and turn the heat to medium. Cook, stirring occasionally. When the pasta is just about done—it should be 2 or 3 minutes shy of being the way you like it—drain it, reserving about a cup of the cooking liquid.

4. Add the pasta to the skillet with the cauliflower and toss with a large spoon until well combined. Add salt and pepper to taste along with some of the pasta water to keep the mixture from drying out. When the mixture is hot and the pasta tender and nicely glazed, serve.

VARIATION

Feel free to add 3 or 4 anchovy fillets, with their oil, to the skillet along with the garlic if you like; when I’m cooking for a group that enjoys bold flavors, I always do.

NOTE

The bread crumbs are best when freshly made from good but slightly stale bread; coarse bread crumbs, such as those made in a food processor, are infinitely preferable to the finer store-bought variety.

LINGUINE WITH FRESH HERBS

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

TIME: ABOUT 30 MINUTES

ALL WINTER I dream of the time when there are so many fresh herbs that it seems imperative to use them at almost every meal. One of my favorite ways to take advantage of this abundance is to mix large quantities of herbs with pasta and a simple base of olive oil and garlic. In winter, a dish like this would not only seem exotic but would also cost a small fortune. In summer, however, it is an inexpensive no-brainer.

¼ cup olive oil, or more to taste

1 teaspoon minced garlic

1 cup or more mixed fresh herbs, like parsley, dill, chervil, basil, tarragon, thyme, oregano, marjoram, or mint, woody or thick stems discarded

1 tablespoon butter (optional)

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 pound linguine or other long pasta

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Combine the olive oil and garlic in a small saucepan over medium-low heat. Cook gently, just until the garlic begins to color, then remove from the heat. Meanwhile, wash and mince the herbs. Put them in a bowl large enough to hold the pasta. Cut the butter into bits if you’re using it and add it to the bowl.

2. Salt the water and cook the pasta until tender but not mushy. Reserve ½ cup of the pasta-cooking water, then drain the pasta and toss with the herbs and reserved olive oil-garlic mixture. Add a little more olive oil or some of the pasta water if you did not use butter and the mixture seems dry. Season with salt and pepper and serve.

PASTA WITH GREEN BEANS, POTATOES, AND PESTO

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

TIME: 30 MINUTES

PESTO HAS BECOME a staple, especially in late summer when basil is best. But pasta with pesto does have its limits; it’s simply not substantial enough to serve as a main course. The Genoese, originators of pesto, figured this out centuries ago, when they created this dish, which augments the pesto with chunks of potatoes and chopped green beans, making it a more complex, more filling, and more interesting dish. Recreating this classic dish is straightforward and easy.

Note that if you start the potatoes and pasta simultaneously, then add the green beans about halfway through cooking, they will all be finished at the same time and can be drained and tossed with the sauce in a snap. This technique may sound imprecise, but it works.

Salt

2 cups fresh basil leaves

2 garlic cloves, peeled

½ cup grated pecorino Romano or other hard sheep’s milk cheese, or Parmigiano-Reggiano

½ cup extra virgin olive oil, or more

2 tablespoons pine nuts

2 medium potatoes (about ½ pound), preferably waxy boiling potatoes, peeled and cut into ½-inch cubes

1 pound trenette or linguine

½ pound green beans, trimmed and cut into 1-inch lengths

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it. Combine the basil, garlic, salt to taste, and cheese in a blender or food processor; pulse until roughly