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Chief among these is that the dish is at its best when the pasta is cooked until it is fat, juice-laden, and quite soft. Here there is no need to seize the ideal moment at which the pasta is al dente; in fact you cook the pasta somewhat past that point, and it is even acceptable for it to sit for a while. Nor need you worry about the “correct” pasta shape; pasta with potatoes requires several different shapes, in varying quantities, preferably broken (it began as a way to use up the bits and pieces of dried pasta lying around in the cupboard).

Finally, not only may you serve pasta with potatoes as a leftover, but it’s just as good after sitting for a day. So feel free to make a half batch of this pasta if you like, but since it’s no more work to make this amount and it keeps for days, I advise making the full recipe.

2 tablespoons olive oil

About ½ cup minced pancetta or bacon (optional)

3 to 4 potatoes (about 1½ pounds), peeled and cut into bite-sized chunks

1 tablespoon chopped garlic

3 to 4 small dried hot red chiles or about 1 teaspoon hot red pepper flakes, or to taste

One 28-ounce can whole plum tomatoes, with juice

About 1½ pounds assorted leftover dried pasta

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Several cups of water, kept at a simmer in a pot or kettle

1. Put the olive oil in a large saucepan and turn the heat to medium. If you’re using pancetta or bacon, add it to the oil and cook, stirring occasionally, until it becomes slightly crisp, about 10 minutes. (If you are omitting the meat, proceed to the next step.)

2. Add the potatoes, garlic, and chiles and raise the heat to medium-high. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the potatoes begin to brown all over, about 10 minutes.

3. Add the tomatoes and their juice, along with 2 cups of water, and bring to a boil. Turn the heat down to medium-low and cook, uncovered, stirring occasionally to break up the tomatoes and prevent sticking.

4. While the potatoes are cooking, break long pasta, like spaghetti, into several lengths; place cut pasta, such as ziti, in a bag and smack it into pieces with the back of a pot or a hammer. After the potatoes have simmered for about 10 minutes, add the pasta and plenty of salt and pepper to the pot. Simmer, stirring and adding water as necessary—the mixture should remain thick and stewy, never dry.

5. When the potatoes and pasta are both quite tender—this will take 20 minutes or more—the dish is done. Be careful not to cook the dish too dry. If, at the last minute, the pasta has absorbed nearly all the liquid, stir in another cup or so of water and cook for a minute or two longer. (It may be covered and refrigerated for a day or two or put in a closed container and frozen for several weeks; it’s likely that you will need to add more liquid when you reheat it.) Check the seasoning and add some hot pepper, black pepper, and/or salt if needed. Serve hot, in bowls.

VARIATIONS

• After the potatoes begin to brown, add 1 to 2 cups chopped onion and cook, stirring, until it softens before proceeding.

• Add small bits of cooked or raw meat—up to 2 cups—along with the potatoes.

• Add chunks of carrot and/or celery—up to 2 cups—along with the potatoes.

• Cook a few stems of basil in the stew. Remove before serving, then garnish with plenty of chopped fresh basil.

• Serve with freshly grated pecorino or Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese.

• Or make Pasta and Potato Soup: Add 2 to 4 cups of water (or, much better, chicken stock) in step 5. Heat and serve with a spoon.

PASTA ALLA GRICIA

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

TIME: 30 MINUTES

THERE IS AN important and splendid group of pasta recipes that is associated with Rome and the area around it; all the variations begin with bits of cured meat cooked until crisp. Around these delightfully crispy bits—and, of course, their rendered fat—are built a number of different sauces of increasing complexity. The first contains no more than meat and grated cheese and is called pasta alla gricia; the second, in