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Mark Bittman's Quick and Easy Recipes From the New York Times - Mark Bittman [120]

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tricky: be sure to allow the rounds to cool slightly so that they can firm up a bit—thirty to sixty seconds is right for me, but if your baking sheet retains more heat, it might take a little longer—and then use the thinnest spatula you have to gently lift them off the baking sheet. Drape the soft mass over a narrow glass, and shape gently; the cups will be ready to fill in a few minutes.

Though they are best when fresh, the cups will retain both shape and flavor for a couple of hours.

PARMESAN CUPS WITH ORZO RISOTTO

MAKES 4 OR MORE APPETIZER SERVINGS

TIME: 30 MINUTES

A COUPLE OF years ago, on a trip to central Italy—where true Parmigiano-Reggiano is made—I learned yet another use for the world’s most important cheese. A cook in a trattoria was taking handfuls of the grated stuff, sprinkling them in a skillet, and forming melted cheese pancakes. While they were still warm, he draped them over the back of a cup, to form crisp, edible, single-ingredient containers. He filled these with a mixture of zucchini, eggplant, and tomatoes and sent them out as a first course.

I found the idea intriguing, but not all that easy to duplicate at home, where my skillet seemed always too hot or too cool, the pancakes too thick or too thin. But when I took the task seriously and set about figuring out the most reliable way to produce these Parmigiano-Reggiano cups, it turned out to be fairly straightforward. Thanks to the miracle of the nonstick surface, just put four rounds of grated cheese on a baking sheet and, five minutes later, they’re done.


2 cups good-quality chicken or other stock

1 cup orzo (rice-shaped pasta)

1 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese (about ¼ pound)

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

½ cup minced fresh parsley


1. Preheat the oven to 350°F.

2. Bring the stock to a boil in a 6-to 8-cup saucepan; stir in the orzo, cover, and turn the heat to medium-low. Set a timer for 15 minutes.

3. Use a ¼-cup measure to make 4 rounds of Parmigiano-Reggiano on a nonstick baking sheet. Smooth the rounds into thin pancakes, 5 or 6 inches across; the thickness need not be perfectly uniform. Put the baking sheet in the oven.

4. The Parmigiano-Reggiano rounds are done when the centers darken slightly and the edges begin to brown, 5 to 6 minutes. Remove the baking sheet from the oven and let it stand for about a minute, then carefully lift each of the rounds and drape it over the bottom of a narrow cup or glass to form a cup shape. Let dry for about 5 minutes.

5. The orzo is done when it is tender and all the liquid has been absorbed. Season it with pepper and very little salt, then stir in the parsley. Spoon a portion of orzo into each of the Parmigiano-Reggiano cups and serve.

VARIATIONS

• Cheese cups can be made with almost any hard cheese or a combination of cheeses. Manchego, pecorino, and other sheep’s milk cheeses are especially good. For fillings, try:

• Steamed and chopped spinach (other than a grating of pepper, no seasoning is necessary)

• Beef stew or other stewed meat

• Ratatouille or other stewed vegetables

RICE NOODLES WITH BASIL

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

TIME: 40 MINUTES

IN A STIR-FRY like this, you can get away with simply soaking rice noodles, but I believe boiling the noodles for 30 seconds or so after soaking improves them a bit. Try it and see. Substitute soy sauce for the nam pla if you like. Thai basil, which looks different from regular basil, can be found at many Asian markets; it’s fabulously fragrant.


¾ pound rice noodles (“rice stick”)

2 tablespoons peanut or vegetable oil

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1 teaspoon minced fresh hot chiles or hot red pepper flakes, or to taste

1 teaspoon sugar

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons nam pla (fish sauce) or soy sauce, or to taste

1 tablespoon fresh lime juice, or to taste

½ cup roughly chopped fresh Thai or other basil or mint


1. Soak the rice noodles in hot water to cover for 15 to 30 minutes, changing the water once or twice if possible to speed the softening. Meanwhile, bring a pot of water to a boil. When

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