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2. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the rice and carrots are very tender, about 30 minutes, and the mixture takes on the consistency of a thick stew. When it reaches this stage, stir in the garlic or butter (if you’re using either or both) and cook for another 5 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasoning and serve.

ROASTED CHESTNUT SOUP

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

TIME: ABOUT 1 HOUR

CHESTNUTS HAVE A subtle but distinctive flavor; another, less-well-known attribute is their ability to lend a rich, creamy texture to anything in which they’re pureed—making cream completely superfluous. This soup is a perfect example, and if you can find frozen, peeled chestnuts, it’s the work of a moment. But even if you cannot, the chestnut-peeling process takes about twenty minutes start to finish, and much of that time is unattended; you can use it to chop and cook the vegetables. In a way, starting from scratch with whole chestnuts is preferable, because they gain a bit of flavor as you toast them lightly to remove the skins.

10 large chestnuts, peeled or unpeeled

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil or butter

2 cups chopped celery

½ cup chopped onion

Salt and freshly ground black

pepper

1 quart good-quality chicken stock

Chopped celery leaves or parsley for garnish

1. If you have skinned chestnuts, proceed to step 2. If your chestnuts still have their skins, preheat the oven to 350°F. Use a sharp (preferably curved) paring knife to make an X on their flat sides. Roast them in one layer in a baking pan for 10 to 15 minutes, or until their skins begin to open away from the meat. They will then be easy to peel; remove both outer and inner skins while they are warm. (The peeled chestnuts will cook faster if you chop them roughly, but it isn’t necessary.)

2. Meanwhile (if you have skinned chestnuts, start here), put the olive oil or butter in a deep skillet or casserole over medium heat. A couple of minutes later, add the celery, onion, and a good sprinkling of salt and pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is translucent, about 10 minutes. Add the stock and the chestnuts, bring to a boil, and partially cover. Adjust the heat so that the mixture simmers and cook until the chestnuts are mushy, about 30 minutes.

3. Carefully puree the soup in a blender (if you are not in a hurry, cool it slightly first for extra caution). Measure and add water to make 6 cups of liquid. Reheat, adjust the seasoning if necessary, garnish with celery leaves or parsley, and serve.

VARIATIONS

I like to elaborate on this soup in two ways, depending on what I’ve got in the fridge and whether meat eaters are coming to dinner:

Chestnut Soup with Bacon

Start by rendering ¼ cup or so of diced slab bacon; scoop out the solids and reserve them for garnish, then sauté the celery and onion in the rendered fat and proceed as directed.

Chestnut Soup with Shiitakes

Garnish the soup with a cup or so of shiitake mushrooms (caps only), sliced and sautéed in butter or oil until crisp.

CURRIED SWEET POTATO SOUP WITH APRICOT

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

TIME: ABOUT 1 HOUR

THIS CARIBBEAN-INSPIRED sweet potato soup is always appropriate in hot weather and makes an unusual starter for a meal off the grill. Serve it hot or cold; by all means chill it in warm weather, but remember it in winter. Whether you’re reheating it or serving it cold, make the soup as far in advance as you like, up to a couple of days. If you’re so inclined, you can make this soup even richer and sweeter by using half chicken stock and half canned coconut milk.

1 tablespoon butter

1½ teaspoons curry powder, or to taste

1 large sweet potato (about 1 pound), peeled and cut into chunks

1 cup dried apricots (about 1 pound)

Salt

1 quart chicken or other stock

1. Put the butter in a casserole or Dutch oven over medium-high heat; when the butter melts, add the curry and cook, stirring, for about 30 seconds. Add the sweet potato and the apricots and cook, stirring occasionally, until