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1 teaspoon minced garlic

1½ cups chopped cooked chicken

1 cup broccoli florets, no larger than 1 inch on any side

1 pound fresh thin egg noodles (labeled “soup noodles” or “wonton noodle” or simply “noodles”)

2 tablespoons soy sauce, or to taste

1 tablespoon sesame oil

½ cup minced scallion

1. Heat the stock with the ginger and crushed garlic while you prepare the other ingredients. Keep it warm and simmering until you are ready to use it.

2. Put the oil in a broad, deep skillet or saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the minced garlic and stir, then add the chicken. Turn the heat to high and cook, stirring occasionally, until the meat begins to brown. Add the broccoli and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 5 minutes.

3. Strain and add the stock; adjust the heat so that it boils gently. Add the noodles and cook, stirring occasionally, until they are separate and tender, about 3 minutes. Stir in the soy sauce and sesame oil, then taste and adjust the seasoning. Divide the soup among 4 bowls; add a little more stock to each if you want the mixture soupier. Garnish with the scallion and serve.

RICH CHICKEN NOODLE SOUP WITH GINGER

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

TIME: 30 MINUTES

BUY RICE “VERMICELLI,” the thinnest rice noodles sold. Substitute angel hair pasta (you’ll have to boil it separately) if you like.

Scant ½ pound fine rice noodles

6 cups chicken stock

1 small dried chile

1 tablespoon finely minced peeled fresh ginger

1 bunch of scallions

½ pound skinless, boneless chicken breast, cut into ½-inch cubes

¼ pound fresh shiitake mushrooms, stems removed, caps sliced

2 tablespoons nam pla (fish sauce) or soy sauce, or to taste

Salt if necessary

¼ cup roughly chopped fresh cilantro

1. Soak the rice noodles in very hot water to cover. Meanwhile, put the stock in a saucepan with the chile and ginger over medium heat. Trim the scallions; chop the white part and add it to the simmering stock. Chop the green part and set aside.

2. After about 8 minutes of simmering, remove the chile. Drain the noodles and add them, along with the chicken breast and mushrooms. Stir and adjust the heat so the mixture continues to simmer. When the chicken is cooked through, about 10 minutes, add the nam pla; taste and adjust the seasoning—add more nam pla or soy sauce or some salt if necessary, along with the cilantro and reserved scallions, then serve.

MUSHROOM-BARLEY SOUP

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

TIME: 45 MINUTES

A GOOD MUSHROOM BARLEY soup needs no meat, because you can make it with dried porcini, which can be reconstituted in hot water in less than ten minutes, giving you not only the best-tasting mushrooms you can find outside of the woods but an intensely flavored broth that rivals beef stock. A touch of soy sauce is untraditional but really enhances the flavor.

¾ ounce dried porcini (about ¾ cup)

2 tablespoons olive oil

¼ pound shiitake or button (white) mushrooms, stemmed and roughly chopped

2 medium carrots, sliced

¾ cup pearled barley

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 bay leaf

1 tablespoon soy sauce

1. Soak the porcini in 1 quart of very hot water. Put the olive oil in a medium saucepan and turn the heat to high. Add the shiitakes and carrots and cook, stirring occasionally, until they begin to brown. Add the barley and continue to cook, stirring frequently, until it begins to brown; sprinkle with a little salt and pepper. Remove the porcini from their soaking liquid (do not discard the liquid); sort through and discard any hard bits.

2. Add the porcini to the pot and cook, stirring, for about a minute. Add the bay leaf, the mushroom-soaking water, and 5 cups additional water (or stock if you prefer). Bring to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer until the barley is very tender, 20 to 30 minutes. If the soup is very thick, add a little more water. Add the soy sauce, then taste and add more salt if necessary and plenty of pepper. Serve hot.

SALADS

SIMPLE GREEN SALAD

HERBED GREEN SALAD, TWO WAYS

PEAR AND GORGONZOLA GREEN SALAD WITH WALNUTS

BIG CHOPPED SALAD WITH VINAIGRETTE

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