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VARIATIONS

• Add minced bell pepper (preferably red or yellow), celery, and/or zucchini to the mix.

• Garnish with fresh basil (Thai basil is especially good), mint, or minced scallion in place of or in addition to the cilantro.

SOUTHEAST ASIAN SHRIMP AND GRAPEFRUIT SALAD

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

TIME: 30 MINUTES

THIS IS A nearly traditional salad in which the grapefruit plays a leading role, complementing mild shrimp and allowing you to make an almost ridiculously easy dressing, made up of nothing more than fish sauce (called nam pla in Thailand and nuoc mam in Vietnam), or soy, lime, a bit of sugar, and some water. Use good shrimp—Pacific or Gulf whites are the best, though the less expensive and widely available tiger shrimp are acceptable—and buy them big, because you’ll have fewer to peel.

1 to 1½ pounds shrimp

Salt

3 tablespoons nam pla (fish sauce) or soy sauce

1 tablespoon sugar

Juice of 2 limes

6 cups lettuce or mesclun

2 grapefruit, peeled and sectioned, tough white pith removed, each section cut in half (see Note)

¼ cup chopped fresh mint

¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro or basil, preferably Thai basil

Minced fresh chile or hot red pepper flakes (optional)

½ cup chopped dry-roasted peanuts (optional)

1. Put the shrimp in a saucepan with salted water to cover; bring to a boil, then turn off the heat and let sit for 5 minutes, or until opaque in the center. Cool in the refrigerator or under cold running water, then peel (and devein if you like). Cut the shrimp in half if they’re large.

2. Meanwhile, make the dressing: Combine the nam pla or soy sauce with 2 tablespoons of water, the sugar, and the lime juice and blend or whisk until smooth.

3. Arrange the lettuce on 4 plates; top each portion with a few grapefruit pieces, some shrimp, and the mint and cilantro; drizzle with the dressing, then sprinkle with a little chile and chopped peanuts if you like, or pass them at the table.

NOTE

The best way to retain the grapefruit’s juices is to peel and section it as you would an orange, not by cutting it in half and scooping out the flesh as you would to serve it at the table. Remove as much of the tough white pith as you can before cutting each section in two, which you should do just before assembling the salad.

MINTY BROILED SHRIMP SALAD

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

TIME: 20 TO 30 MINUTES

I DEVISED THIS recipe to harness the delicious juices shrimp exude as they’re cooking—the shrimp essence. Not wanting to completely overwhelm delicately flavored greens with the powerfully spiced shrimp, I use a mixture of arugula, lettuce, and a high proportion of mint, dressed with olive oil and lemon juice. The result is a nice, juicy, big, flavorful—and easy—salad.

2 pounds shrimp in the 15-to-30-per-pound range, peeled and, if you like, deveined

1 teaspoon minced garlic, or more to taste

1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon cayenne, or to taste

1 teaspoon paprika

¼ cup olive oil

2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice

30 to 40 fresh mint leaves

6 cups arugula and/or other greens

1. Preheat the broiler and put the rack as close to the heat source as possible. Put a large ovenproof skillet or heavy-bottomed roasting pan on the stove over low heat.

2. Combine the shrimp with the garlic, salt, cayenne, paprika, half the olive oil, and the 2 teaspoons lemon juice; stir to blend. Turn the heat under the skillet to high.

3. When the skillet smokes, toss in the shrimp. Shake the pan once or twice to distribute them evenly, then immediately put the skillet under the broiler.

4. Mince about one-third of the mint. Tear the remaining leaves and toss them with the arugula. Stir the remaining olive oil and lemon juice together in a bowl.

5. The shrimp are done when opaque; this will take only 3 or 4 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the shrimp to a plate; it’s fine if they cool for a moment. Add the shrimp juices to the olive oil-lemon juice mixture and stir. Dress the greens with this mixture and toss (if