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3. Let the bread sit for 20 to 30 minutes, tossing occasionally and tasting a piece every now and then. The salad is at its peak when the bread is fairly soft but some edges remain crisp, but you can serve it before or after it reaches that state. When it’s ready, stir in the herb and serve.

VARIATIONS

Bread Salad Served with Seafood

If you’re serving the salad alongside seafood, consider adding ¼ cup chopped olives, 1 tablespoon capers, and/or 2 minced anchovy fillets (or a little less of each) to the salad.

Bread Salad with Shrimp or Chicken

Grill or broil some shrimp or skinless, boneless chicken alongside the bread (you don’t need as much as you would if you were serving the shrimp or chicken apart from the salad), then add the chunks to the salad.

Bread Salad with Tuna

Add a goodly amount of tuna (only the Italian kind, packed in olive oil, please) to the mix.

SHELLFISH

FENNEL-STEAMED MUSSELS, PROVENCE STYLE

STEAMED MUSSELS, ASIAN STYLE

BLACK SKILLET MUSSELS

CRABBY CRAB CAKES

COLD POACHED SHRIMP

SPANISH-STYLE SHRIMP

SHRIMP IN MOROCCAN-STYLE TOMATO SAUCE

SPICY SHRIMP

SHRIMP, ROMAN STYLE

SHRIMP WITH “BARBECUE” SAUCE

SHRIMP IN YELLOW CURRY

STEAMED SHRIMP WITH LEMONGRASS-COCONUT SAUCE

SHRIMP OR SCALLOP SEVICHE

SHRIMP COOKED IN LIME JUICE

STIR-FRIED LEEKS WITH GINGER AND SHRIMP

SOY-DIPPED SHRIMP

STUFFED SCALLOPS

MISO-BROILED SCALLOPS

SCALLOPS A LA PLANCHA

CURRIED SCALLOPS WITH TOMATOES

SEA SCALLOPS WITH NUTS

ROASTED BAY SCALLOPS WITH BROWN BUTTER AND SHALLOTS

SQUID IN RED WINE SAUCE

BROILED OR GRILLED SOFTSHELL CRABS

GRILLED OR BROILED LOBSTER

PAELLA, FAST AND EASY

CLAMBAKE IN A POT

BOUILLABAISSE

FENNEL-STEAMED MUSSELS, PROVENCE STYLE

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

TIME: 30 MINUTES

IN A CAFÉ in southern France about thirty years ago, I sat in a bistro and timidly prepared to order salade Niçoise. Just then, a huge bowl of steaming, powerfully fragrant mussels was delivered to a man sitting at the table next to me, and I boldly changed my order. The hot mussels were essentially tossed with fennel and fennel seeds, which I could see, but the licorice bouquet and indeed flavor were far stronger than that combination alone could provide. Later, I realized that there was a secret ingredient: an anise liqueur, either Pernod or Ricard. The combination is alluring.

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

4 garlic cloves, smashed and peeled

1 fennel bulb (about 1 pound), trimmed and thinly sliced

2 tablespoons fennel seeds

½ cup Pernod or Ricard or 4 whole star anise

1 cup chopped tomatoes, fresh or drained canned (optional)

1 fresh tarragon sprig (optional)

At least 4 pounds large mussels, well washed and debearded

1. Put the oil in a large pot over medium heat; a minute later, add the garlic, fennel, fennel seeds, liqueur, and tomatoes and tarragon if you’re using them. Bring to a boil, cook for about a minute, add the mussels, cover the pot, and turn the heat to high.

2. Cook, shaking the pot occasionally, until the mussels open, 5 to 10 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the mussels and fennel to a serving bowl, then strain any liquid over them and serve.

VARIATIONS

There are many, many herbs, spices, vegetables, and other seasonings that can lend a licorice flavor, including anise seeds or ground anise; five-spice powder; ouzo or raki, the anise-scented liqueurs of the eastern Mediterranean; and tarragon, chervil, even basil—especially Thai basil. (You could probably throw in a few pieces of Good&Plenty while you’re at it.)

Or you can go super-minimal and make plain steamed mussels. The procedure is the same, but omit all ingredients except mussels, oil, and garlic. Shake the pot a couple of times while cooking. These are great with a little melted butter (laced with minced garlic if you like) drizzled over them and a big loaf of crusty bread.

MUSSELS

EVERY YEAR, we see more and more cultivated mussels, most often from Prince Edward Island, which is fast becoming the mussel farming capital of North