Mark Bittman's Quick and Easy Recipes From the New York Times - Mark Bittman [44]
4. Put the butter or oil in a 12-inch nonstick skillet and turn the heat to medium-high. When the butter foam subsides or the oil is hot, cook the burgers for 2 to 3 minutes per side, turning once. Alternatively, you can grill them; let them firm up on the first side, cooking for about 4 minutes, before turning them over and finishing the cooking for just another minute or two. On no account should the burgers be overcooked. Serve the burgers on a bed of greens, or buns, or simply plates, with lemon wedges and Tabasco or any dressing you like.
VARIATIONS
Though I am partial to the formula in the main recipe for salmon burgers, the mustard, shallots, and capers can be considered optional, so you can combine them or omit them as you like when experimenting.
• Use any fresh herbs, like parsley, chervil, dill, or cilantro. Add 2 tablespoons or more with the second batch of salmon.
• Use a combination of soy sauce (about a tablespoon), sesame oil (a teaspoon), and ginger (a teaspoon, added with the first batch of salmon). Use peanut oil for sautéing if you have it.
• Add a small garlic clove along with the first batch of salmon. (Don’t overdo it, because the garlic will remain nearly raw.)
• Add ¼ cup onion or scallion chunks in addition to or instead of the shallots.
• Add spice mixtures like curry or chili powder to the mixture—a teaspoon to a tablespoon, to taste.
• Add roughly chopped red or yellow bell pepper (about ½ cup) with the second batch of salmon.
• Add ¼ cup or more lightly toasted pine nuts or about 1 tablespoon sesame seeds along with the bread crumbs.
HERB-RUBBED SALMON
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
TIME: 30 MINUTES
ALTHOUGH THIS MINIMALIST but infinitely variable technique of herb-coating salmon is about as straightforward as can be, allowing the fillets to sit for a while after coating will encourage the fragrant seasonings to permeate the flesh of the fish; try fifteen minutes or so at room temperature or up to 24 hours in the refrigerator.
Four 6-ounce skinned salmon fillets
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon fennel seeds
1 tablespoon minced fresh rosemary
1 tablespoon minced orange zest
2 tablespoons olive oil or butter
1. Season the fillets on both sides with salt and pepper to taste. Grind the fennel seeds coarsely and mix them with the rosemary and orange zest. Press this mixture into the top (nonskin side) of each fillet. Let sit, refrigerated and covered, for up to 24 hours.
2. When you’re ready to cook, preheat the oven to 450°F. Preheat a large nonstick ovenproof skillet over medium-high heat for 3 or 4 minutes. Add the oil or butter and, when it shimmers, place the fillets, coated side down, in the pan. Cook for about 1 minute, or until the herb mixture forms a nicely browned crust.
3. Turn the fillets and cook for about a minute more, then transfer to the oven. Cook for about 4 minutes for rare salmon, 5 to 6 minutes for medium-rare, and 8 minutes for well done.
VARIATIONS
Seed-Rubbed Salmon
Combine 2 tablespoons shelled raw pumpkin seeds and about 2 tablespoons dried porcini pieces in a coffee or spice grinder and grind to a coarse powder. Press some of the mixture into the top (nonskin side) of each of the fillets and cook as directed.
Spice-Rubbed Salmon
Combine 1 tablespoon coriander seeds or ground coriander, ¼ teaspoon whole or ground cloves, 1½ teaspoons cumin seeds or ground cumin, and 1 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg (grind all together if necessary). Press some of the mixture into the top (nonskin side) of each of the fillets and cook as directed.
ROAST SALMON STEAKS WITH PINOT NOIR SYRUP
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
TIME: 30 MINUTES
THIS MYSTERIOUS, DARK extraordinarily delicious sauce is a kind of gastrique, a relatively simple sauce based on caramelized sugar.
Note that if the sugar turns black and begins to smoke, you have burned rather than caramelized it. Throw it out and start again, with lower heat and