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Mark Bittman's Quick and Easy Recipes From the New York Times - Mark Bittman [48]

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steak—about the right size for this procedure—for eight to ten minutes, I’d estimate twelve to fourteen. The actual time will vary depending on the heat of your grill or broiler, but you can assume a little bit longer than what you’re used to. Check by cutting into the fish when you think it’s done; the interior can be pearly but should not look raw.


10 anchovy fillets

1½ cups fresh parsley leaves, washed and left wet

2 garlic cloves

Zest and juice of 1 lemon

¼ cup extra virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons capers with their liquid

1½ to 2 pounds swordfish steak, skin on

Salt and freshly ground black pepper


1. Preheat a grill or broiler to moderately hot and put the rack 4 to 6 inches from the heat source. Combine the anchovies, parsley, garlic, lemon juice and zest, and 2 tablespoons of the oil in a small food processor or blender. Process until pureed, adding a little bit of hot water (or more olive oil) if necessary to allow the machine to do its work. Combine the puree with the capers.

2. Cut the swordfish in half horizontally, leaving the skin attached as a hinge. Spread about half of the mixture on the inside of the “sandwich,” then close the steak with a couple of toothpicks. Brush with the remaining oil, then sprinkle with salt and pepper.

3. Grill for at least 5 minutes per side, or until the swordfish is done (it should remain slightly translucent in the center). Serve with the remaining green sauce.

SHAD ROE WITH MUSTARD

MAKES 2 SERVINGS

TIME: 15 MINUTES

SHAD, THE LARGEST member of the herring family, migrates to the rivers of the East Coast every spring. It’s a big, bony fish (filleting it properly is an increasingly rare skill) with moist flesh that is not unlike that of salmon. But its huge egg sacs, which come in pairs held together by a thin membrane, are the real attraction. They’re filled with millions of eggs, which, if they are not overcooked, remain creamy and rich in a way that is reminiscent of fine organ meat—not quite foie gras, but not that far away either. As a bonus, the exterior membrane becomes slightly crisp.

Most shad roe is sadly overcooked, but this need not be the case. Keep the cooking time for shad roe short, just long enough to firm up the roe and cook it to the equivalent of medium-rare. (It’s okay to cut into it for a look-see the first couple of times you try this, but it’s also pretty easy to get the hang of it, because the change in texture is rather dramatic.) Note that this recipe serves two; it’s easy enough to double, however; just use two skillets instead of one to avoid crowding the roe.


2 tablespoons butter

1 large pair shad roe (about ¾ pound)

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

Minced fresh parsley for garnish (optional)


1. Heat an 8- or 10-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat for a minute or two, then add the butter. When it melts, gently lay the shad roe in the pan and sprinkle it with salt and pepper. Cook for about 3 minutes, or until the underside is lightly browned.

2. Turn very gently—a large spatula is best for this—and season the cooked side. Cook for another 3 minutes or so, again until the underside is lightly browned. By this time the roe should be quite firm to the touch; if it is still soft, cover the pan and cook for another minute or two, then cut into it to check. When done, the center will be red and the area surrounding it pink.

3. Transfer the roe to a warm plate. Add the mustard and ¼ cup of water to the pan; stir. Raise the heat to high and stir the sauce with a wooden spoon until smooth and thick. Spoon over the roe, garnish if you like, and serve immediately

VARIATIONS

Shad Roe with Capers and Vinegar

In step 3, omit the mustard. Instead, stir in 2 tablespoons capers, 1 tablespoon vinegar, and 2 tablespoons of water. Stir until blended and the liquid is reduced by about half. Spoon over the roe, garnish, and serve.

Shad Roe with Bacon

Omit the butter. Begin by cooking 4 thick slices good-quality bacon over medium heat until the fat is rendered and the bacon is done; remove the bacon

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