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Mark Bittman's Quick and Easy Recipes From the New York Times - Mark Bittman [59]

By Root 712 0
definition has expanded, to the point where it describes a series of flexible techniques that can be applied to just about any thin cut of meat, poultry, or fish, all of which makes it more useful.

You must preheat the skillet before adding the oil (or clarified butter, if you’re feeling extravagant) and you must use a large, flat-bottomed skillet, preferably nonstick, with deep, sloping sides, which makes turning the cutlets easier and keeps the inevitable spattering to a minimum.


4 skinless, boneless chicken breast halves (1 to 1½ pounds)

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Flour or cornmeal for dredging

Olive or other oil (or clarified butter) as needed

1 to 2 tablespoons butter (optional)

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley


1. Heat a 12-inch skillet, preferably nonstick, over medium-high heat for about 2 minutes. While it is heating, sprinkle the chicken with salt and pepper to taste and put the flour or cornmeal on a plate.

2. Put the oil or clarified butter in the skillet—it should coat the bottom well—and turn the heat to high. When the oil is hot, dredge a piece of the chicken in the coating, turning it over a few times and pressing it down so that it is well covered. Add the piece to the pan, then repeat with the rest of the chicken.

3. Cook until the chicken is nicely browned on the first side, 3 to 5 minutes, then turn. Cook on the second side for 2 to 4 minutes—lower the heat a bit if the coating begins to scorch—until the chicken is firm to the touch. As the chicken is cooking, melt the butter if you’re using it over medium heat until it is nut-brown.

4. When the chicken is done, drain it briefly on a paper towel, then transfer to a warm platter. Drizzle with lemon juice and top with half the parsley. At the last minute, pour the browned butter over all, add the remaining parsley, and serve.

VARIATIONS

• For the chicken, you can substitute similarly shaped cutlets of pork, turkey, or veal, all of which will cook through in 6 to 8 minutes, just like the chicken. Shrimp, scallops, and calf’s liver can also be cooked this way, all for somewhat less time—generally 4 to 6 minutes.

• Chicken breasts made this way can be prepared in advance and served at room temperature; don’t hold them for more than a couple of hours, however.

• Substitute bread crumbs (season them with finely minced garlic and fresh parsley if you like), ground nuts, or sesame seeds for the flour or cornmeal.

• Stir a tablespoon or more of any spice mixture, like chili powder or curry powder, into the coating.

• Add a garlic clove and/or a small handful of chopped fresh herbs to the browning butter.

• Add a teaspoon of balsamic vinegar and/or a tablespoon of capers to the browning butter (omit the lemon juice).

PANFRIED DUCK

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

TIME: 1 HOUR

HERE’S A METHOD that takes less than an hour and results in a crisp bird from which nearly all of the fat has been rendered. It’s accomplished by the simple procedure of cutting up the duck, then cooking it, covered, on top of the stove. Served hot or at room temperature, the bird is crisp, tender, and far more flavorful than any chicken.


One 5- to 6-pound duck

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

3 garlic cloves (optional)

Several fresh thyme sprigs (optional)


1. Cut the duck into 6 or 8 serving pieces. Reserve the wing tips, back, and neck for stock. (Cut the gizzard into slices and cook along with the duck if you like; reserve the liver for another use.) Put the duck, skin side down, in a 12-inch skillet. Sprinkle it with salt and pepper, add the garlic and a few thyme sprigs, and turn the heat to medium-high. When the duck begins to sizzle, cover and turn the heat to medium.

2. After 15 minutes, turn the duck and season the skin side. After 15 more minutes, uncover the skillet and turn the heat back to medium-high. Cook the duck, turning as necessary, so that it browns nicely on both sides; this will take another 15 minutes.

3. Serve hot or at room temperature. Strip some of the leaves from the remaining thyme sprigs and

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