Mark Bittman's Quick and Easy Recipes From the New York Times - Mark Bittman [64]
VARIATIONS
This type of preparation is used with many different foods in both Thailand and Vietnam, and most of them not only adapt perfectly to this recipe but are faster to prepare.
• Use boneless chicken, cut into chunks. Cook for only about 5 minutes after adding the chicken and bringing the liquid back to a boil. Or leave boneless breasts or thighs whole; cooking time will be about 10 minutes for breasts to 15 minutes for thighs.
• Use whole shrimp or scallops or a combination. Cooking time will be about 5 minutes from the time the liquid returns to a boil.
• Use chunks of boneless or bone-in pork like lean pork chops.
Boneless pork will cook in about 10 minutes (from the time the liquid returns to a boil), bone-in in about 20 minutes.
• Use chunks of firm tofu, which will cook through in 3 to 5 minutes.
• Use vegetables in the dish: quartered peeled onions, roughly chopped bell pepper, or chunks of zucchini; add them along with the shallots and other seasonings.
SLOW-COOKED DUCK LEGS WITH OLIVES
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
TIME: 2 HOURS, LARGELY UNATTENDED
UNLESS YOU’VE MADE your own duck confit, you may never have cooked duck legs by themselves; but in many ways they’re superior to both duck breasts and whole birds. They’re quite lean, and just a quick trimming of the excess fat is all that’s necessary. And, given proper cooking—that is, long, slow cooking—they become fork-tender and richly flavorful, reminiscent of some of the “lesser” cuts of beef and pork, like brisket and cheek. Finally, it’s easy enough to cook enough legs for eight—which is hardly the case with whole duck!
4 duck legs
5 or more garlic cloves
1 cup olives, preferably a combination of green and black
Several fresh thyme sprigs
One 14-ounce can tomatoes with juice
1 medium onion, roughly chopped (optional)
1 carrot, roughly chopped (optional)
1 celery stalk, roughly chopped (optional)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Chopped fresh parsley for garnish
1. Trim all visible fat from the duck legs, then lay them in a large, broad skillet; they can overlap if necessary. Turn the heat to medium and add all the remaining ingredients except the parsley. When the mixture reaches a lively simmer, turn the heat to low and cover.
2. Cook, checking occasionally—the mixture should be bubbling gently when you remove the cover—until the duck is very tender, about 1½ hours. Transfer the duck to a warm plate and cover (or put in a very low oven), then turn the heat to medium-high under the remaining sauce. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the mixture is reduced to a thick, saucelike consistency, about 10 minutes. Spoon over the duck legs, garnish, and serve.
BRAISED GOOSE WITH PEARS OR APPLES
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
TIME: ABOUT 3 HOURS, LARGELY UNATTENDED
THERE IS NO more celebratory food than goose, but when it is roasted it is difficult to carve and can be disappointing. Braising it, especially with fruit, is a different approach that works brilliantly.
Any dried fruit can be used in this preparation, but dried pears hold their shape better and are a little less sweet than prunes and apricots; there’s no reason you can’t substitute, however, or combine.
1 goose, cut into serving pieces, excess fat removed
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
½ cup diced bacon or pancetta (optional)
2 large onions, roughly chopped
4 bay leaves
A few fresh thyme sprigs
½ pound dried pears or apples
2 cups dry white wine
1 tablespoon vinegar: white wine, champagne, or sherry
About 2 pounds pears or apples, peeled, cored, and sliced
1. Turn the heat to medium-high under a casserole or deep skillet at least 12 inches across; a minute later, add the goose pieces, skin side down. Cook, rearranging the pieces now and then so that they brown evenly, until nicely browned and rendered of fat, 10 to 15 minutes. Sprinkle with