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3. When the meat is done, put the sugar in a small, heavy saucepan over medium-high heat; add a couple of tablespoons of water. Cook, shaking the pan occasionally, until the sugar melts and turns dark golden brown. Carefully add about half the caramel to the beef mixture, then add the lemon and soy sauce. If the mixture is appealingly salty and bitter, it is done; if it is tame, add more salt, lemon juice, pepper, and/or some of the caramel. Carve the meat and serve it with the sauce.

JAPANESE-STYLE BEEF STEW WITH WINTER SQUASH

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

TIME: AT LEAST 1 HOUR, LARGELY UNATTENDED

BEEF STEWED IN dashi and mirin seems lighter and more delicate than beef stewed in stock or wine. It’s a dish that’s filling enough to satisfy on a fall or winter day but doesn’t have the heaviness sometimes associated with pot roasts and stews. Serve it with prepared Japanese mustard or wasabi on the side.

2 pounds boneless beef chuck, cut into 1- to 1½-inch chunks

2 cups dashi (see Note)

¼ cup soy sauce

¼ cup mirin, honey, or sugar

10 nickel-sized slices peeled fresh ginger

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 lemon

1½ pounds peeled butternut, pumpkin, or other winter squash or sweet potatoes, cut into 1-inch chunks

1. In a large skillet, preferably nonstick, over medium-high heat, sear the meat until nicely browned; do it in 2 or 3 batches to avoid crowding. It will take only 5 minutes per batch, since it’s sufficient to brown the meat well on one side. As you finish, transfer the chunks to a medium casserole.

2. When the meat is all browned, add the dashi to the skillet and cook over high heat, stirring and scraping occasionally, until all the solids are integrated into the liquid. Pour into the casserole with the soy sauce, mirin, ginger, and a couple of grinds of pepper. Peel the lemon and add the peel to the mixture; juice the lemon.

3. Cover and cook on top of the stove (or in a preheated 350°F oven), maintaining a steady simmer. Stir after 30 minutes and begin to check the meat at 15-minute intervals.

4. When the meat is tender, or nearly so, stir in the squash and continue to cook as before, checking every 15 minutes, until the squash is tender but not mushy. Add salt if necessary, then stir in the reserved lemon juice and serve.

TO MAKE DASHI

Combine 1 piece dried kelp (kombu), about 3 inches long, with 2 cups of water in a small pan over medium heat. Don’t allow the mixture to come to a boil; as soon as it is about to, turn off the heat and remove the kelp. Stir in ½ to 1 cup dried bonito flakes, let sit for a couple of minutes, then strain. Use the dashi immediately, or refrigerate for up to 2 days.

SAUTÉED CHICKPEAS WITH MEAT

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

TIME: 30 MINUTES

THIS RECIPE, which is vaguely related to the classic chili, combines chickpeas, meat, and spices and takes advantage of all of those assets. The cooked chickpeas are sautéed over high heat until browned and slightly crisp, and the pan is ultimately deglazed with the reserved chickpea-cooking liquid.

½ pound ground beef or other meat

4 cups cooked or canned chickpeas (2 cups of the cooking or canning liquid reserved)

1½ teaspoons ground cumin

½ ancho or chipotle chile, soaked, stemmed, seeded, and minced, or 1 teaspoon good-quality chili powder, or to taste

1½ teaspoons minced garlic

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

Minced fresh cilantro or parsley for garnish (optional)

1. Turn the heat to high under a large, deep skillet and add the meat a little at a time, breaking it into small pieces as you do so. Stir and break up the meat a bit more, then add the chickpeas. Keep the heat high and continue to cook, stirring only occasionally, until the chickpeas begin to brown and pop, 5 to 10 minutes. Don’t worry if the mixture sticks a bit, but if it begins to scorch, lower the heat slightly.

2. Add the cumin, chile, and garlic and cook, stirring, for about a minute. Add the reserved cooking