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Mark Bittman's Quick and Easy Recipes From the New York Times - Mark Bittman [78]

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as well: in just a few minutes, enough of their surface area browns that you can move to the next step of the recipe. This guarantees a full-flavored stew—the browning step is not essential but very desirable—and reduces stovetop mess.


1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon butter (or more oil)

1½ to 2 pounds boneless veal shoulder or leg, cut into pieces no larger than 1½ inches on any side.

1 fresh tarragon sprig or ½ teaspoon dried

1 pound spring onions, shallots, or scallions, cut in half if large

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

½ cup white wine or water

1 cup shelled fresh peas, snow peas, or frozen peas


1. Put a 12-inch skillet over high heat and, a minute later, add the oil and butter. Add the meat in one layer (if you use the larger amount of meat, you may have to cook in batches to cook only in one layer; it’s worth the effort). Cook, undisturbed, until the meat is nicely browned on the bottom, about 5 minutes.

2. Add the tarragon, onions, and some salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions soften and any bits of meat stuck to the bottom of the pan are released, about 5 minutes. Add the liquid (but don’t add too much liquid; the meat and onions generate plenty of their own as the covered meat simmers gently), stir, reduce the heat to low, and cover. Cook for 30 to 40 minutes, or until the veal is tender.

3. Uncover, add the peas, and raise the heat to medium. Cook for about 5 minutes more, until the peas are done. Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary and serve.

VARIATIONS

Veal Stew, Provençal Style

In step 1, use all olive oil. In step 2, omit the tarragon and onions, adding instead 2 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed; 20 fresh basil leaves, roughly chopped; 2 cups seeded and chopped tomato (canned is fine, lightly drained); and 1 cup good-quality black olives; omit the wine or water. Add the salt and pepper and cook as directed. In step 3, omit the peas; uncover and reduce the liquid if necessary until the stew is thick. Garnish with more chopped basil.

Veal Stew with Paprika

In step 1, use all butter (or grapeseed, corn, or other light oil). In step 2, omit the tarragon; add 2 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed, and 2 teaspoons good-quality paprika. Add salt, pepper, and liquid and cook as directed. In step 3, omit the peas and stir in 1 cup sour cream and more paprika if necessary.

VEAL STEW WITH DILL

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

TIME: 1 TO 1½ HOURS, LARGELY UNATTENDED

THE SMALLER THE pieces you cut, the shorter the cooking time, but I wouldn’t make them too small or you’ll rob yourself of some of the satisfaction of eating them. This stew is also excellent made with lamb shoulder.


1½ pounds boneless veal shoulder, cut into roughly 1½-inch chunks

4 shallots, peeled

8 to 12 very small new potatoes

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 carrots, cut into roughly pea-sized bits (optional)

1 cup shelled fresh or frozen peas

8 scallions, roughly chopped (optional)

½ cup snipped fresh dill for garnish, or more to taste

Lemon wedges for serving


1. Put the veal in a broad skillet over high heat; sear, undisturbed, for about 4 minutes, or until the underside is nicely browned (don’t worry if not all of the pieces brown). Stir, then add the shallots and potatoes. Cook for another couple of minutes, then add salt, pepper, and 1½ cups of water. Stir, scraping the bottom if necessary to loosen any bits of meat that may have stuck. Turn the heat to low, cover, and simmer for about 45 minutes, stirring once or twice during that period.

2. Uncover and add the carrots if you’re using them; stir once, recover, and simmer for about 15 minutes more, or until the veal and potatoes are tender.

3. Uncover and add the peas and scallions if you like. Raise the heat if necessary to boil away excess liquid. Taste and adjust the seasoning, then serve, garnished with the dill and accompanied by a lemon wedge.

LAMB


CRISP ROASTED RACK OF LAMB

BRAISED AND GRILLED LAMB SHANKS

BRAISED AND BROWNED LAMB WITH PEACHES

LAMB WITH PEPPERS AND YOGURT SAUCE

BONELESS LAMB

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