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2. Puree in a blender, then chill fully. Stir in the cream, then adjust the seasoning and serve, garnished with parsley.

THE MINIMALIST’S CORN CHOWDER

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

TIME: 30 TO 40 MINUTES

ANYONE WHO’S EVER had a garden or raided a corn field knows that when corn is young you can eat it cob and all and that the cob has as much flavor as the kernels. That flavor remains even when the cob has become inedibly tough, and you can take advantage of it by using it as the base of a corn chowder—a corn stock, if you will. Into that stock can go some starch for bulk, a variety of seasonings from colonial to contemporary, and, finally, the corn kernels. The entire process takes a half hour or a little bit longer, and the result is a thick, satisfying, late-summer chowder.

4 to 6 ears corn

1 tablespoon butter or neutral oil, like corn or grapeseed

1 medium onion, chopped

2 medium potatoes, peeled and cut into ¼-inch pieces

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tomatoes, seeded and chopped (optional)

1 cup milk

½ cup chopped fresh parsley (optional)

1. Shuck the corn and use a paring knife to strip the kernels into a bowl. (Catch any liquid that seeps out and add it to the soup.) Put the cobs in a pot with 1 quart water; bring to a boil, cover, and lower the heat to simmer while you continue.

2. Put the butter or oil in a saucepan and turn the heat to medium-high. When the butter melts or the oil is hot, add the onion and potatoes, along with a sprinkling of salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion softens, about 5 minutes; add the tomatoes if you’re using them and cook, stirring, for another minute or two.

3. After the corn cobs have cooked for at least 10 minutes, strain the liquid into the onion-potato mixture; bring to a boil, then turn the heat down so the mixture simmers. When the potatoes are tender, after about 10 minutes, add the corn kernels and milk and heat through. Adjust the seasoning, garnish with the parsley if you like, and serve.

VARIATIONS

Corn Chowder with Bacon and Cream

In step 2, substitute ½ cup chopped bacon for the butter or oil; cook over medium heat until it renders some of its fat, then add the onion. Proceed as directed. In step 3, use heavy cream or half-and-half in place of milk.

Curried Corn Chowder

In step 2, use oil and add 1 tablespoon curry powder, or to taste, and 1 tablespoon minced peeled fresh ginger to the onion as it cooks. Proceed as directed. In step 3, use sour cream in place of milk; garnish with minced cilantro in place of parsley.

CLAM CHOWDER

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

TIME: 30 MINUTES

ALTHOUGH CLAM CHOWDER takes many guises, the best is a simple affair that has as its flavorful essence the juices of the clams themselves. And as long as you begin with fresh clams, these juices are easily extracted and reserved; the minced clam meat becomes a garnish.

Hardshell clams, often called littlenecks, cherrystones, or quahogs, are a must for this chowder; cockles, which are smaller, will also work well. Steamers (which have softer shells) will make the chowder sandy.

If you like, try finishing the chowder with a little cream for both color and silkiness.

At least 3 dozen littleneck clams (3 pounds or more), or an equivalent amount of other clams (see Note)

1 medium onion, peeled and minced

2 large potatoes (about 1 pound), peeled and cut into ¼-inch dice

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. Wash the clams well, scrubbing if necessary to remove external grit. (You can wash the clams hours or even a day in advance; keep them in a large bowl or colander set over a bowl, uncovered, in the refrigerator.) Put them in a pot with ½ cup of water and turn the heat to high. Steam, shaking the pot occasionally, until most of the clams are open, 7 to 10 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the clams to a broad bowl; reserve the cooking liquid.

2. When the clams are cool enough to handle, shuck them over the bowl, catching every drop of their liquid; discard the shells. If any clams remain closed, use a thin-bladed knife to