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INGREDIENTS (MAKES 4 SERVINGS)

4 veal loin chops, each about 10 ounces and 1 to 1½ inches thick

1 cup Wasabi Vodka Infusion (a variation of Horseradish Vodka Infusion, page 351)

1½ teaspoons wasabi powder or wasabi paste

4 tablespoons (½ stick) butter, softened

Oil for coating grill grate

DIRECTIONS

1. Trim the surface fat on the chops to about ¼ inch. Put the chops in a large zipper-lock bag and add the vodka infusion. Press the air out of the bag, seal, and massage the liquid into the meat. Refrigerate for 2 to 3 hours.

2. Mix the wasabi powder with 1½ teaspoons water and let stand for 10 minutes to form a paste. Mix the rehydrated wasabi into the softened butter with a fork. If using prepared wasabi paste, just mix the paste directly into the softened butter without adding water.

3. Heat the grill as directed.

4. Remove the chops from the marinade and discard the marinade. Pat the chops dry with paper towels and let rest at room temperature, about 30 minutes.

5. Brush the grill grate and coat it with oil. Put the chops on the grill, cover, and cook for 4 to 6 minutes per side for medium-rare (135°F on an instant-read thermometer). If your grill has a temperature gauge, it should stay at around 450°F.

6. Remove the chops to a platter or plates, cover loosely with foil, and let rest for 5 minutes. Melt about a tablespoon of the wasabi butter over each chop.

GRILL TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT

• Long-handled tongs

TIPS

• If you can’t find wasabi, replace it with 2 teaspoons finely grated fresh horseradish or well-drained prepared horseradish.

• For help with choosing veal chops, see below.

Veal Rib Chops with Cucumber Raita

Although veal loin chops benefit from the extra moisture in a marinade, veal rib chops, which have more marbling, don’t really need an infusion of liquid to keep them moist. We like to dry-rub rib chops and serve them with a chunky sauce. Veal chops take well to the warm spices in Indian garam masala and the cooling flavors of the traditional Indian cucumber-yogurt salad known as raita.

THE GRILL

Gas:

Direct heat, medium-high (400° to 450°F)

Clean, oiled grate

Charcoal:

Direct heat, light ash

12-by-12-inch charcoal bed (about 3 dozen coals)

Clean, oiled grate on lowest setting

Wood:

Direct heat, light ash

12-by-12-inch bed, 3 to 4 inches deep

Clean, oiled grate set 2 inches above the fire

INGREDIENTS (MAKES 4 SERVINGS)

For the veal:

4 veal rib chops, each 10 to 12 ounces and 1 to 1½ inches thick

½ cup Garam Masala Rub (page 376)

¼ teaspoon ground cayenne pepper, or more to taste

1 teaspoon kosher salt

Oil for coating grill grate

For the raita:

1 medium cucumber, peeled, seeded, and finely chopped

1 cup plain yogurt

1 tablespoon minced scallion (white part only)

3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh mint leaves

¼ teaspoon kosher salt

1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper

TIMING

Prep: 10 minutes (plus 5 minutes for rub)

Marinate: 1 to 8 hours

Grill: 8 to 12 minutes

GRILL TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT

• Long-handled tongs

TIPS

• Whole-milk yogurt tastes best in the raita, but low-fat yogurt will work.

• For a thicker texture in the raita, drain the yogurt in a cheesecloth-lined colander set over a bowl for about 1 hour. Or use a mixture of ¾ cup undrained yogurt and ¼ cup sour cream.

VEAL CHOPS AND BEEF STEAKS

The best veal chops for grilling are rib chops and loin chops. These same cuts would be called steaks when cut from mature cattle. Veal rib chops look similar to a beef rib-eye steak with a bone running along the edge of the chop. Veal loin chops are the equivalent of a beef porterhouse steak with a small piece of the tenderloin and a larger piece of top loin separated by a T-shaped bone. Like the equivalent cuts from mature cattle, veal rib chops have a bit more intramuscular fat, a firmer texture, and more flavorful meat. Veal loin chops are more tender and have a bit less fat, but they are more apt to become dry and tough on the grill. A third option among veal chops is the top loin chop, the equivalent of