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THE GRILL

Gas:

Direct heat, medium (350°F)

Clean, oiled grate on lowest setting

Charcoal:

Direct heat, medium ash

12-by-12-inch charcoal bed (about 3 dozen coals)

Clean, oiled grate on lowest setting

Wood:

Direct heat, medium ash

12-by-12-inch bed, 3 to 4 inches deep

Clean, oiled grate set 4 inches above the fire

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Photo: Pesto Chicken Stuffed with Arugula, Roasted Peppers, and Chèvre

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INGREDIENTS (MAKES 4 SERVINGS)

4 boneless, skinless chicken breast halves, about 1½ pounds

½ teaspoon kosher salt

¼ teaspoon ground black pepper

6 ounces soft goat cheese

1 ounce baby arugula (about 1 packed cup)

¾ cup Marinated Fire-Roasted Peppers (page 276)

1 small scallion, roots trimmed, finely chopped

¼ cup Tapenade Parsley Pesto (page 398) or prepared basil pesto

Oil for coating grill grate

DIRECTIONS

1. Put the chicken breasts, one at a time, between sheets of wax paper or plastic wrap, with the smooth side down. Pound with the flat side of a mallet or heavy skillet to an even ¼-inch thickness, being careful not to tear the meat.

2. Sprinkle the chicken with the salt and pepper, then spread the goat cheese over it, leaving a ¼-inch border around the edges. Top with the arugula, fire-roasted peppers, and scal-lions. Roll up jelly-roll style from a short side, pushing in the sides as you roll, to enclose the filling. Secure each with a wooden toothpick or short skewer. Brush the pesto over the surface of the chicken. To make ahead, cover and refrigerate for up to 8 hours. Rest at room temperature before grilling.

3. Heat the grill as directed. Brush the grill grate and coat it with oil. Grill the chicken, turning often, with the toothpicks in place and the grill lid down, until the chicken is no longer pink and the filling is hot, 10 to 15 minutes total. Cool slightly, then slice crosswise on a slight diagonal to reveal the filling, and serve.

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Photo: Pesto Chicken Stuffed with Arugula, Roasted Peppers, and Chèvre

Grilled Peking-Style Chicken

Peking duck, China’s crowning achievement in the culinary arts, is an elaborate affair that begins by pumping air beneath the duck skin to help it crisp during roasting. For a fairly traditional Peking duck that’s roasted on the grill, see page 246. If you want the signature flavors and presentation without the hassle, try this version, which uses skin-on chicken parts. We crisp the chicken by pouring boiling water over the skin and letting it dry out in the refrigerator before grilling. Like traditional Peking duck, the chicken is served with hoisin sauce, scallions, and mandarin pancakes. But we doctor up the hoisin with a little orange juice and chili garlic paste.

THE GRILL

Gas:

Direct heat, medium (350°F)

Clean, oiled grate on lowest setting

Charcoal:

Direct heat, medium ash

12-by-12-inch charcoal bed (about 3 dozen coals)

Clean, oiled grate on lowest setting

Wood:

Direct heat, medium ash

12-by-12-inch bed, 3 inches deep

Clean, oiled grate set 4 inches above the fire

INGREDIENTS (MAKES 4 SERVINGS)

1 pound boneless, skin-on chicken thighs

1 pound boneless, skin-on chicken breasts

2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil

1 teaspoon Chinese five-spice powder

½ teaspoon kosher salt

¼ teaspoon ground black pepper 1 cup hoisin sauce

¼ cup honey

¼ cup orange juice

1 to 2 tablespoons Chinese chili paste with garlic (more if you like it hot)

Oil for coating grill grate

4 scallions, roots trimmed, thinly sliced

12 to 16 crêpes (page 246) or mandarin pancakes

DIRECTIONS

1. Bring 4 cups of water to a boil. Put the chicken thighs skin-side up in a colander in the sink. Slowly pour half of the water over the chicken skin. Remove the thighs to a rack set on a baking sheet. Put the chicken breasts in the colander in the sink and slowly pour the remaining hot water over the skin. Remove the breasts to the rack and refrigerate the rack of chicken, uncovered, for 24 hours (this blanching and drying process helps give the chicken a crisper skin).

2.