Mastering the Grill_ The Owner's Manual for Outdoor Cooking - Andrew Schloss [127]
• As the bacon grills, its fat helps to keep the fish moist, and it also adds flavor. If you don’t want the bacon, reserve some of the olive oil to drizzle over the fish after it is cooked.
THE GRILL
Gas:
Direct heat, medium-high (400° to 450°F)
Clean, oiled grate on lowest setting
Charcoal:
Direct heat, light ash
10-by-10-inch charcoal bed (about 3 dozen coals)
Clean, oiled grate on lowest setting
Wood:
Direct heat, light ash
10-by-10-inch bed, 1 inch deep
Clean oiled, grate set 2 inches above the fire
INGREDIENTS (MAKES 4 SERVINGS)
2 cups Orange-Fennel Brine (page 362)
4 boneless brook trout, about 6 ounces each
8 sprigs fresh dill, mint, sage, or rosemary
2 tablespoons olive oil
8 slices bacon
Oil for coating grill grate or basket
DIRECTIONS
1. Put the brine in a gallon-size zipper-lock bag.
2. The trout will be split down their bellies; open them up like a book to expose the interior to the brine. Place the fish in the brine and seal the zipper, leaving about an inch open; push on the bag to release any trapped air through the opening, and close the zipper completely. Massage the liquid gently into the fish and refrigerate for 1 hour.
3. Heat the grill as directed.
4. While the grill is heating, remove the fish from the brine and discard the brine. Place 2 herb sprigs in the cavity of each fish; close each fish around the herbs. Pat the fish skin until dry; rub the outside of each fish with olive oil.
5. Wrap 2 slices of bacon around each fish, allowing the ends of each strip to meet and overlap slightly. Secure each bacon slice with an oiled wooden toothpick.
6. Brush the grill grate and coat it with oil. If using a fish basket, coat the basket with oil. Put the fish in a single layer on the grill grate or in the grill basket and cover the grill. Cook until the bacon is cooked through and any exposed fish skin is crisp, about 6 minutes per side. Remove the toothpicks and serve.
WHY DOES BRINING WORK?
If salt dries out proteins, why does brining make meat moister?
During brining, the salt and acid in the brine make the tightly wound spiral structure of meat proteins unravel (denature). As the spiral opens up, the exposed bonds on the ribbons of protein bind with liquid in the brine, resulting in a 6 to 8 percent increase in the fluid content of the protein. When the meat is grilled, the structure of the protein reforms, trapping the absorbed juices inside. Be careful that you don’t overcook brined meats. Excessive heat will cause the protein bonds to tighten, squeezing out all of the liquid that has been taken in.
Lemon-Rosemary Swordfish Steaks with Olive Aioli
These fish steaks have an incredible herbaceous aroma. Fresh garlic mayonnaise made with chopped green olives adds a rich counterpoint. There may appear to be a lot of ingredients here, but they are all quickly stirred together. Aside from the marinating time, the dish takes less than 15 minutes from start to finish. Fair warning: The fresh mayonnaise uses raw egg yolks in the traditional manner. If you’re concerned about salmonella, buy your eggs from a trusted source. Or use prepared mayonnaise, as described in the shortcut.
TIMING
Prep: 5 minutes
Marinate: 1 to 3 hours
Grill: 6 to 8 minutes
GRILL TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT
• Long-handled spatula
Photo: Fennel-Brined Trout Grilled with Bacon and Herbs
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THE GRILL
Gas:
Direct heat, medium-high (400° to 450°F)
Clean, oiled grate
Charcoal:
Direct heat, light ash
12-by-12-inch charcoal bed (about 3 dozen coals)
Clean, oiled grate on lowest setting
Wood:
Direct heat, light ash
12-by-12-inch bed, 3 to 4 inches deep
Clean, oiled grate set 2 inches above the fire
INGREDIENTS (MAKES 4 SERVINGS)
For the fish:
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary
1 tablespoon chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
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