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7. Meanwhile, cut the pears in half lengthwise, remove the core with a melon baller, and coat the pear halves with the 1 tablespoon oil.

8. During the last 10 minutes of cooking, put the pears directly over the heat, and cook until browned and tender, brushing with the remaining glaze and turning once.

9. Remove the chicken and pears to a large serving platter, lifting the chicken with tongs and using a spatula for support. Let rest for 8 to 10 minutes; carve (see page 184) and serve.

Photo, right: Rubbing butter under chicken skin Photo, opposite: Roasted Chicken Grilled with Hot Pepper Pears and Honey

Three-Ginger Rotisserie Chicken

The triumvirate of ginger that dominates this chicken was divided in order to conquer. Fresh ginger minced with cardamom, garlic, and butter is rubbed under the skin. Ginger preserves mixed with soy sauce and balsamic vinegar form a piquant glaze, and the dish is served with a cool, clean combo of pickled ginger, scallions, and hot pepper.

TIMING

Prep: 20 minutes

Grill: About 1½ hours

GRILL TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT

• Kitchen twine

• Rotisserie for grill

• Long-handled basting brush

* * *

THE GRILL

Gas:

Indirect heat, medium (325° to 350°F)

3- or 4-burner grill–middle burner(s) off

2-burner grill–1 side off

Grate removed

Rotisserie set up

Charcoal:

Indirect heat, medium ash

Split charcoal bed (about 2 dozen coals per side)

20 replacement coals

Heavy-duty drip pan set between banks of charcoal

Grate removed

Rotisserie set up

INGREDIENTS (MAKES 4 SERVINGS)

2 tablespoons grated peeled gingerroot

3 cloves garlic, minced

¼ teaspoon ground cardamom

¼ teaspoon dried thyme

¼ teaspoon kosher salt, or more to taste

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened

1 chicken, about 4 pounds, washed and dried

1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil

½ cup ginger preserves

2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon soy sauce

1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar

1/3 cup pickled sushi ginger

3 scallions, roots trimmed, thinly sliced

Pinch of crushed red pepper flakes

DIRECTIONS

1. Heat the grill as directed.

2. Mix the ginger, 2 cloves of the garlic, the cardamom, thyme, salt, and butter by mashing them with a fork on a clean work surface until well blended.

3. Separate the skin from the breast and legs of the chicken, and gently but firmly insert your index finger under the skin at the neck end of the chicken. Move it around, separating the skin from the meat underneath. Gradually ease your whole hand under the skin, loosening the skin from the breast, legs, and drumsticks.

4. Spoon the spice butter under the skin and push it evenly over the breast and legs of the chicken by rubbing the skin to spread the butter.

5. Tie the legs of the chicken together with kitchen twine, rub the outside with the sesame oil, and slide onto the skewer of the rotisserie. Secure according to the rotisserie directions.

6. Combine the ginger preserves, 2 tablespoons soy sauce, and balsamic vinegar in a small saucepan. Heat until the preserves dissolve; set aside for glazing the chicken.

7. Put the skewered chicken into the rotisserie assembly. The chicken should be suspended away from direct heat and turn freely as the rotisserie rotates. Cover the grill and cook until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the breast registers about 170°F, about 1½ hours, brushing the chicken with the glaze 3 times during the last 30 minutes of cooking. If your grill has an external thermometer, it should stay at around 350°F. If you are using charcoal, you will probably have to replenish the coals after the first hour.

8. Remove the chicken from the skewer to a large serving platter; let rest for 10 minutes. In a bowl, mix the pickled ginger, remaining clove of garlic, 1 teaspoon soy sauce, scallions, and red pepper flakes. Carve the chicken (see page 184), and serve with the pickled ginger mixture.

Hot Pepper–Coconut Milk Chicken

Coconut milk is sweet and rich, the perfect balm