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1. Heat the grill as directed.

2. Put an oiled grill screen on the grill and put the bell pepper and chile on the screen. Cook, covered, until they are charred on all sides, about 15 minutes for the bell pepper and 10 minutes for the chile. When charred, put in a covered bowl until cool enough to handle, about 10 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, prepare the pesto by chopping the basil, garlic, and pine nuts in a food processor until finely chopped. Add the olive oil and process in pulses to a smooth paste. Season with the salt and pepper. Set aside.

4. To make a hole down the center of the tenderloin, into which you can insert the stuffing, position a sharpening steel at the thicker end of the tenderloin and push it through until its tip comes out the other side. Remove the steel. Insert a thin, long-bladed knife into the hole made by the steel several times, making shallow slits to enlarge the hole.

5. Peel the grilled peppers and discard the stem, core, and seeds. Dice finely and combine with the garlic, anchovy, parsley, breadcrumbs, olive oil, salt, and pepper in a bowl.

6. Stand the tenderloin on end and spoon the pepper mixture into the hole, packing it down with the steel or the handle of a wooden spoon. When about half of the stuffing is in the meat, turn the tenderloin over and fill the hole from the other side.

7. Put the beef on a sheet of plastic wrap and rub the exterior with the pesto. Wrap in the plastic and set aside for 10 minutes.

8. Brush the grill grate and coat it with oil. Put the tenderloin on the grill, cover, and cook until browned on all 4 sides, about

5 minutes per side. Check the temperature with an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thicker end; it should register 120°F for medium-rare. If your grill has a temperature gauge, it should stay at around 400°F.

9. Let rest for about 5 minutes; slice into ½-inch-thick slices and serve.

Orange–Black Pepper Beef Tenderloin with Fresh Herb Wrap

Compared to other cuts of beef, the tenderloin is tiny (a chuck can weigh 100 pounds; a whole tenderloin maxes out at around 7 pounds), yet it accounts for a lion’s share of the potential value of the beef. This is because we will pay anything for tenderness, and a tenderloin is the tenderest of all cuts. At times it goes on sale, but beware. The sale price is usually for tenderloin that has not been trimmed, and the cut can lose 30 percent or more of its weight in unusable trimmings. This recipe makes the most of your investment, coating the beef in a fragrant, spicy rub and serving it with an orange-scented butter sauce. It is equally good served hot or at room temperature if you want to make it ahead.

THE GRILL

Gas:

Direct heat, medium-high (400° to 450°F)

Clean, oiled grate

Charcoal:

Direct heat, light ash

12-by-12-inch charcoal bed (about 3 dozen coals)

Clean, oiled grate on lowest setting

Wood:

Direct heat, light ash

12-by-12-inch bed, 3 to 4 inches deep

Clean, oiled grate set 2 inches above the fire

TIMING

Prep: 20 minutes

Grill: About 20 minutes

GRILL TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT

• Long-handled tongs

Photo: Pesto-Rolled Beef Tenderloin with Roasted Pepper Rouille

INGREDIENTS (MAKES 8 SERVINGS)

For the beef:

½ teaspoon kosher salt

½ teaspoon ground dried orange peel

½ teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper

1 beef tenderloin, about 3 pounds, trimmed and tied

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1 cup chopped fresh herbs (flat-leaf parsley, rosemary, oregano, thyme, chervil, and/or tarragon)

Oil for coating grill grate

For the sauce:

4 tablespoons (½ stick) butter, salted or unsalted

1 clove garlic, minced

1 teaspoon coarsely chopped fresh rosemary leaves

1 cup fresh orange juice

TIPS

• If you want to cook the tenderloin more than medium-rare, move the meat out of direct heat. Cook for 10 minutes more and check the internal temperature (130°F for medium, 140°F or higher for well-done).

• Dried orange peel is readily available in the spice aisles of most grocery stores.

DIRECTIONS

1. Mix the salt, orange peel, and pepper in a small bowl. Set aside ¼ teaspoon