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4. Brush the grill grate and coat with oil. Put the lamb on the grill away from the heat, cover the grill, and cook until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the leg registers about 135°F for medium-rare, about 1 hour and 15 minutes. If your grill has a temperature gauge, it should stay between 350° and 375°F. If you are using charcoal, you will probably have to replenish the coals after the first hour.

5. Remove the lamb to a large serving platter, using tongs and a spatula for support. Let rest for 8 to 10 minutes; remove the twine, slice, and serve.

Grilled Side of Salmon In Chili Paste

The fat-rich flesh of salmon is built for the grill. It keeps the meat moist, even if it overcooks slightly, and it helps the fillet keep its shape, even if it sticks slightly. These attributes are enhanced in farmed salmon and diminished in wild-caught fish, which means that the two will have very different cooking times.

TIMING

Prep: 20 minutes (plus 5 minutes for glaze)

Grill: 10 to 16 minutes

GRILL TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT

• Long-handled fish spatula or 2 regular offset spatulas

• Long-handled basting brush

* * *

THE GRILL

Gas:

Direct heat, medium (350°F)

Clean, oiled grate

Charcoal:

Direct heat, medium ash

12-by-12-inch charcoal bed (about 3 dozen coals)

Clean, oiled grate on medium setting

Wood:

Direct heat, medium ash

12-by-12-inch bed, 3 inches deep

Clean, oiled grate set 4 inches above the fire

INGREDIENTS (MAKES 4 SERVINGS)

¼ cup Ginger-Hoisin Balsamic Glaze (page 388)

1 to 1½ tablespoons Chinese chili paste with garlic

1 side of salmon, about 1½ inches thick, 1½ pounds

2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil

Oil for coating grill grate

1 lime, cut into 4 wedges

DIRECTIONS

1. Heat the grill as directed.

2. Mix the glaze and chili paste (to taste); set aside. Coat the salmon with the sesame oil.

3. Brush the grill grate and coat it with oil. Put the salmon, flesh-side down, on the grill. Cover and cook until browned, about 5 minutes.

4. Flip the fish and baste with the chili paste mixture. Cover and grill until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the salmon registers 130°F, about 5 minutes more for wild salmon, 10 to 12 minutes more for farm-raised (until the fish barely flakes when gently pressed). If your grill has a temperature gauge, it should stay between 375° and 400°F.

5. Transfer the fish to a serving platter by sliding the spatula(s) between the skin and the flesh. The skin will stick to the grill grate; let it stay there. You can scrape it off later. Serve with the lime wedges.

Cumin-Crusted Sea Bass with Lime-Cilantro Butter

Whole fish grilled over an open flame develops a crackled skin and concentrated moisture that is the essence of succulence. Unfortunately, the increased popularity of fish has not translated into an increase in the availability of whole fish. Almost everything you see is already filleted. This is a shame because the flesh of fish cooked whole has more flavor (from contact with the bone) and hangs on to its moisture better. If you don’t want to serve the fish with its head on, remove it after cooking. Slashing the flesh in its thicker parts will help the fish cook more evenly and gets any seasoning closer to the meat, where it does the most good.

TIMING

Prep: 5 minutes (plus 10 minutes for rub and butter)

Grill: About 15 minutes

GRILL TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT

• Long-handled fish spatula

• Grill screen or fish-grilling basket

* * *

THE GRILL

Gas:

Direct heat, medium (350°F)

Clean, oiled grate

Charcoal:

Direct heat, medium ash

12-by-12-inch charcoal bed (about 3 dozen coals)

Clean, oiled grate on medium setting

Wood:

Direct heat, medium ash

12-by-12-inch bed, 3 inches deep

Clean, oiled grate set 4 inches above the fire

INGREDIENTS (MAKES 4 SERVINGS)

2 whole sea bass, about 1½ pounds each, gutted and cleaned

2 tablespoons Cumin Rub (page 382)

2 tablespoons olive oil

Oil for coating grill grate and screen