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By Root 1140 0

—the big kahuna of Hawaiian cooking. The centerpiece is kalua pig (ka meaning “the,” and lua meaning “hole”), which refers to the method of cooking in an imu, a Polynesian pit oven. Digging the pit, constructing the imu, and cooking the pig is an all-day affair (literally all day, requiring about 18 hours). So we offer a modified mainland method that is impressive in its own right. Even so, your standard gas or kettle grill will not suffice. A big barrel-shaped smoker-grill or a premium gigantic gas grill will work well; otherwise, you will have to rent a large party grill.

TIMING

Prep: 45 minutes (plus 5 minutes for the lacquer)

Grill: About 3½ hours

* * *

GRILL TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT

• Heavy-duty aluminum foil

• Large needle, preferably curved (an upholstery needle works great)

• Heavy-duty thread

• Heavy-duty cotton kitchen twine

• Ti, palm, or banana leaves

• Large carving board

LOMI LOMI SALMON

This marinated salmon salad is a traditional luau side dish.

Makes about 15 servings

2 pounds salmon fillet, skin and bones removed

Kosher salt, as needed

4 tomatoes, stemmed and diced

1 small red onion, diced

3 scallions, trimmed and thinly sliced Juice of 1 lime

¼ to ½ teaspoon hot pepper sauce

Ground black pepper to taste

Slice the salmon thinly. Sprinkle generously with kosher salt, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 1 hour. Rinse and pat dry. Cut into small pieces and toss with the remaining ingredients.

PROCURING A PIG

A suckling pig is not just a small pig; it is an infant. The North American Meat Processors Association has developed guidelines for butchering and sizing animals, to which all butchers subscribe. Under these guidelines animals are categorized by size, A through D. Unless you have a gargantuan grill, you want to purchase a pig in the A weight range, which is 12 to 24 pounds. These will cost much more per pound than larger pigs, but you will end up paying about the same amount for the whole pig. Most supermarket meat departments will not be able to get an item this specific, so we suggest you look for a good-quality Italian or Hispanic butcher. You can order frozen suckling pigs online from www.mcreynoldsfarms.com.

THE GRILL (MINIMUM 36-INCH-WIDE BY 24-INCH-DEEP FIRE BED)

Gas:

Indirect heat, low (225° to 250°F)

3- or 4-burner grill–middle burner(s) off

Clean, oiled grate

Charcoal:

Indirect heat, heavy ash

Split charcoal bed (about 3 dozen coals per side)

60 to 80 replacement coals

Large, heavy-duty drip pan set between banks of charcoal

Clean, oiled grate on high setting

Wood:

Indirect heat, heavy ash

2 beds, 8 by 8 inches, 2 inches deep

Additional wood for replacement

Clean, oiled grate set 6 to 8 inches above the fire

INGREDIENTS (MAKES ABOUT 15 SERVINGS)

For the pig:

2 tablespoons canola oil

2 cups unsweetened shredded coconut

2 cups long-grain rice

1 can (about 14 ounces) coconut milk

2¼ cups water

¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

2 teaspoons kosher salt

1½ cups coarsely chopped dried pineapple (6 ounces)

½ cup coarsely chopped crystallized ginger (2 ounces)

1 cup chopped dried apricots (4 ounces)

1 cup dried tart cherries

4 scallions, trimmed and thinly sliced

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 suckling pig, dressed, about 20 pounds (left)

2 cups Red-Cooking Lacquer (page 385)

1 lime (optional)

For the fruit and onions:

1 cup light brown sugar

½ cup dark rum

1 teaspoon ground cardamom

1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil

1 large pineapple, peeled, cored, and sliced into ½-inch-thick rings

1 papaya, peeled, seeded, and sliced into wedges

2 star fruit, cut into ½-inch slices

1 orange, thickly sliced

2 limes, sliced

2 large sweet onions, such as Maui, peeled and sliced into ½-inch-thick rings

Lomi Lomi Salmon (recipe at left; optional)

DIRECTIONS

1. For the pig, heat the oil in a large, heavy saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the coconut and stir until lightly toasted, about 3 minutes.

2. Add the rice and stir to coat with the oil. Add the coconut milk, water, red pepper flakes, and salt. Bring to a boil,