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1 cup white wine

1 cup orange juice

12 fresh figs, halved lengthwise

12 small fennel twigs (optional)

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

6 sausage links (your choice—anything from mild Italian to lamb with garlic)

Oil for coating grill grate

3 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into pieces

DIRECTIONS

1. Put the game hen halves and duck breasts in a gallon-size zipper-lock bag with the brine. Seal the zipper, leaving about an inch open; push on the bag to release any trapped air through the opening, and close the zipper completely. Massage the liquid gently into the meat and refrigerate for about 1 hour.

2. Meanwhile, heat the pancetta in a small saucepan until the fat renders. Add the wine and orange juice and boil until reduced to 1 cup; set aside.

3. Heat the grill as directed.

4. Spear each fig half with a fennel twig (if desired) and coat the figs with the olive oil. Poke the sausages several times with a fork.

5. Remove the game hen halves and duck breasts from the brine; discard the brine. Pat dry. Brush the grill grate and coat it with oil; put the hens, skin-side down, on the grill. Cover and cook for 5 minutes. Turn, and put the duck breasts, skin-side down, and the sausages on the grill. Cover and grill until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of a game hen breast, a duck breast, or the end of a sausage registers 165°F, about 12 minutes, turning the sausages and duck breasts halfway through.

6. Remove everything to a large serving platter and keep warm. If using gas, turn the grill to high, put a grill screen on the grill, and heat for 1 minute. (If using charcoal or wood, place the grill screen over the hottest part of the fire.) Put the figs, cut-side down, on the grill screen, cover the grill, and cook until the figs have browned, about 3 minutes. Transfer to the platter.

7. Reheat the reduced wine and orange juice to boiling. Mix in the butter, stir until melted, and pour the sauce over everything. Serve immediately.

Whole Beef Tenderloin Stuffed with Foie Gras and Morels

Under the assumption that nothing exceeds like excess, we offer this, our rendition of übercarne. If you can find fresh morels, the aroma will be heightened, but dried morels are wonderful as well and are a compromise only when compared to fresh. Plus they have the advantage of producing a concentrated soaking liquid that adds flavor to the stuffing when reduced. To get a jump on the meal, assemble the tenderloin ahead, refrigerate it for a day or more, and then grill it just before serving.

TIMING

Prep: 25 minutes (plus 5 minutes for rub)

Rest before grilling: 10 minutes

Grill: About 25 minutes

GRILL TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT

• Long-handled tongs

• Heavy-duty cotton kitchen twine

* * *

THE GRILL

Gas:

Direct heat, medium-high (450°F)

Clean, oiled grate

Charcoal:

Direct heat, light ash

12-by-12-inch charcoal bed (about 3 dozen coals)

Clean, oiled grate on lowest setting

Wood:

Direct heat, light ash

12-by-12-inch bed, 3 to 4 inches deep

Clean, oiled grate set 2 inches above the fire

INGREDIENTS (MAKES 8 SERVINGS)

6 ounces fresh morels, or 1 ounce dried morels, soaked in hot water and drained

4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 shallots, finely chopped

1 clove garlic, minced

1 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary leaves

1 plum tomato, finely chopped

1 cup beef broth or mushroom soaking liquid, if using dried morels

Kosher salt and ground black pepper to taste

4 ounces pâté de foie gras or goose liver pâté, broken or cut into pieces

1 trimmed beef tenderloin, about 5 pounds,

2 tablespoons Tuscan Rosemary Rub (page 375)

Oil for coating grill grate

DIRECTIONS

1. Heat the grill as directed.

2. Chop the morels coarsely. Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the shallots, garlic, and rosemary and sauté until tender, about 2 minutes. Add the tomato and mushrooms and sauté until the vegetables soften, about 3 minutes. Add the broth or soaking liquid and simmer until the liquid is absorbed. Season with salt and pepper.