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best done by indirect heat to help prevent burning. Each step is simply a matter of managing the heat that reaches the animal. We prefer to cook whole animals slowly via indirect heat for at least half or, preferably, most of the cooking time. That means either (a) spreading out the coals so that the heat surrounds the animal instead of coming from directly beneath it, or (b) raising the animal high enough above the coals so that the meat heats slowly rather than quickly. When using charcoal or wood, we like to spread the coals so that the heat surrounds the animal. It’s just easier to move the heat than to move the meat.

A note on marinating and basting. We believe that both marinating and basting are naturally achieved when spit-roasting a well-seasoned animal. If you include some lemon juice or another acidic ingredient along with your seasonings, the roasting time is long enough that the seasonings rubbed into the animal’s surfaces penetrate and flavor the meat just as much as they would by marinating. So marinating is not strictly necessary. You could, for the sake of convenience, season the animal a day in advance of roasting it, and you may get a bit more flavor penetration that way.

As for basting, the animal should adequately baste itself on the spit. When turned steadily near the indirect heat of the coals, the animal’s outer layers of fat slowly melt and roll around the meat, basting the meat and keeping it moist. If you happen to notice any dry areas on the surface of the animal during the last half of cooking, drizzle a little oil over the area to ensure even browning.

Grilled Peking Duck

The pre-prep when making Peking duck, one of the epitomes of Chinese cuisine, includes pumping it with air, tying off the neck, and fanning it for hours as the skin dries. This process is so complex and arcane that culinary war stories hardly ever mention how the duck is roasted. This recipe doesn’t skimp on any steps and will no doubt provide you with your own battle tales, but the difference here is what happens to the flavor when you roast the duck over coals. The skin crisps like a single layer of lacquer, and the meat gets a smoky nuance that deepens its traditional salty-sweet profile. The recipe calls for serving it traditionally with hoisin sauce and pancakes. If you want to skip that presentation, the duck is delicious all by itself.

TIMING

Prep: 30 minutes (plus 5 minutes for Peking crackle)

Dry: 2 hours

Grill: About 1 hour

GRILL TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT

• Small bicycle pump with a needle attachment, or a marinade injector

• Heavy-duty cotton kitchen twine

• Electric fan

• Roasting rack

• Disposable aluminum roasting pan

• Long-handled basting brush

SHORTCUT

• To make a simpler version of Peking duck, see the Grilled Peking-Style Chicken on page 167.

CRÊPES

Makes about 12 crêpes

¾ cup flour

¾ cup water

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

3 eggs

No-stick spray oil for coating pan

1. Mix the flour, water, and salt with a whisk in a medium bowl until smooth. Beat in the eggs, one at a time. Set aside for at least 20 minutes.

2. Heat a small, nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until very hot. Spray very lightly with oil. Make crêpes in the hot skillet by pouring a few tablespoons of batter into the skillet. Swirl to cover the bottom of the skillet, and pour the excess batter back into the bowl. Cook for about 30 seconds; the edges of the crêpe will dry and it will be set across the surface. Flip the crêpe and cook for 5 or 10 seconds. Slip onto a plate and make another crêpe. Don’t spray the skillet with more oil until the crêpes start to stick slightly, after about 6 crêpes. Keep the crêpes covered until ready to serve.

THE GRILL

Gas:

Indirect heat, medium-high (350° to 375°F)

3- or 4-burner grill-middle burner(s) off

2-burner grill—1 side off

Clean, oiled grate

Charcoal:

Indirect heat, medium ash

Split charcoal bed (about 2 dozen coals per side)

Heavy-duty drip pan set between banks of charcoal

Clean, oiled grate on medium setting

Wood:

Indirect heat, medium ash

12-by-12-inch