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2 tablespoons butter

¼ teaspoon crushed saffron threads

1 teaspoon plus 2 tablespoons sugar

2 small papayas, about 1 pound each

Oil for coating grill grate

4 ounces (½ cup) mascarpone

½ cup very cold heavy cream

Grated zest of ½ lime

3 to 4 drops lime oil, or ¾ teaspoon lime extract

1/4 teaspoon grated nutmeg (optional)

DIRECTIONS

1. Heat the grill as directed.

2. Put the butter, saffron, and the 1 teaspoon sugar in a small saucepan. Heat over low heat until melted and richly colored, 5 to 8 minutes, stirring occasionally.

3. Meanwhile, cut the papayas lengthwise and scoop out the seeds. Brush the cut sides of the papaya halves with the saffron butter.

4. Brush the grill grate and coat it with oil. Put the papaya halves, skin-side down, on the grill and cook until lightly grill-marked, 3 to 4 minutes. Flip and grill diagonally on the grill grate until grill-marked, 3 to 4 minutes. Turn 45 degrees and grill until grill-marked in a crosshatch pattern, 3 to 4 minutes more.

5. Put the papaya halves cut-side up on plates or a platter and brush with the remaining saffron butter.

6. Combine the mascarpone, 2 tablespoons of the heavy cream, the lime zest, and the lime oil or extract in a medium bowl.

7. Whip the remaining cream and 2 tablespoons sugar with an electric mixer on medium speed until soft peaks form, about 2 minutes. Fold the whipped cream into the mascar-pone mixture.

8. Dollop the mascarpone cream in the center of each papaya half, sprinkle with the nutmeg, if using, and serve. Allow guests to scoop the papaya from its skin.

* * *

TIPS

• To whip the cream faster, chill the heavy cream and the bowl and beaters of the electric mixer in the freezer for 15 to 20 minutes.

• Save time by heating the sweet saffron butter in a microwave on low power for 3 to 4 minutes.

* * *

Photo: Grilled Papaya with Sweet Saffron Butter and Lime Mascarpone Cream

Honey-Toasted Pound Cake with Grilled Candied Blood Oranges

Pound cake is wonderful when toasted on the grill. We make this one with a touch of honey and orange zest to complement slices of candied blood oranges. The primary cooking here happens in the oven and on the stovetop. The grill is used merely to toast the pound cake and brown the candied oranges. Nonetheless, this double cooking deepens the caramelized flavors and adds a wisp of smoke if you use a charcoal grill. For more information on blood oranges, see the introduction to Grilled Fruit Skewers with Honey Mustard (page 322).

THE GRILL

Gas:

Direct heat, medium (350°F)

Clean, oiled grate

Charcoal:

Direct heat, medium ash

12-by-12-inch charcoal bed (about 3 dozen coals)

Clean, oiled grate on lowest setting

Wood:

Direct heat, medium ash

12-by-12-inch bed, 3 inches deep

Clean, oiled grate set 4 inches above the fire

INGREDIENTS (MAKES 8 SERVINGS)

For the pound cake:

1¾ cups cake flour or all-purpose flour

1½ teaspoons baking powder

½ teaspoon grated nutmeg

¼ teaspoon kosher salt

1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature

½ cup sugar

½ cup honey, preferably orange blossom

4 eggs, at room temperature

2 teaspoons grated orange zest (blood orange or navel orange)

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

½ teaspoon almond extract

Oil for coating grill grate

For the candied oranges:

3 blood oranges, rinsed

3 cups water

1½ cups sugar

¼ cup light corn syrup

DIRECTIONS

1. For the pound cake: Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter a 9-by-5-inch loaf pan.

2. Mix together the flour, baking powder, nutmeg, and salt in a medium bowl.

3. In a bowl, using an electric mixer on medium speed, beat the butter until creamy. Beat in the sugar and honey until light and fluffy, scraping down the sides of the bowl once or twice. Beat in the eggs, one at a time, beating thoroughly after each addition. Beat in the orange zest, vanilla extract, and almond extract. Mix in the dry ingredients on very low speed, or mix them in by hand just until incorporated.

4. Scrape the batter into the prepared pan and smooth the top. Bake until well browned on the top