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By Root 937 0

fall into early spring. The roots are usually sold in 2-inch-long sections (although the whole root can range up to 20 inches), measuring 1 to 2 inches in diameter. Choose roots that are very hard and are free of spongy spots. Over-the-hill horseradish roots will look shriveled and dry. Bottled prepared horseradish is readily available in the refrigerated condiment section of grocery stores. Prepared horse-radish is preserved in vinegar and salt.

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MARINATING TIME

Marinating small seafood and thin fish: 30 minutes

Marinating thick fish and boneless poultry: 1 hour

Marinating bone-in poultry, chops, and steaks: 2 to 3 hours

Marinating roasts: 3 to 8 hours (depending on size)

GOOD WITH

Seafood: shrimp, scallops, soft-shell crabs, any fish

Poultry: chicken, turkey, game hen, duck, goose

Meat: beef, lamb, pork, veal

INGREDIENTS (MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP)

1 lemon

3 tablespoons grated horseradish, purchased or fresh

1 cup vodka

1 fresh jalapeño chile, stem removed, chopped

2 tablespoons kosher salt

1 medium onion, thinly sliced

DIRECTIONS

1. Grate the zest from the lemon with a fine grater. Trim the white pith from the fruit, and slice the lemon into thin rounds.

2. Combine the lemon zest, lemon slices, and remaining ingredients in a gallon-size zipper-lock bag; seal and shake.

3. Put the bag in a bowl just large enough to hold it snugly. Open the bag and add the meat. Seal the zipper, leaving about an inch open; push on the bag to release any trapped air through the opening, and close the zipper completely. Massage the liquid gently into the meat and refrigerate for the suggested marinating time.

Photo: Horseradish Vodka Infusion

Mignonette Marinade and Mop

Mignonette is French for a cracked peppercorn, and the flavor of freshly bruised pepper is the raison d’etre of this marinade, which is delicious with seafood, chicken, and light meats. It can also be used as a dip or table sauce.

TIMING

Prep: 5 minutes (plus cooling time)

GETTING CREATIVE

• Make a red wine mignonette to use with beef or lamb by substituting red wine for white and red wine vinegar for white wine vinegar.

• Adjust the pepper flavor by substituting different types of peppercorns and/or chile peppers for the black pepper.

• Add a tablespoon or two of lemon or lime juice if using this marinade with seafood.

TIP

• For better pepper flavor, crack whole peppercorns right before you use the marinade. This can be done with a mallet, a mortar and pestle, or (Andy’s favorite) a small iron skillet. Thwack!

* * *

MARINATING TIME

Marinating small seafood and thin fish: 30 minutes

Marinating thick fish and boneless poultry: 1 hour

Marinating bone-in poultry, chops, and steaks: 2 to 3 hours

Marinating roasts: 3 to 8 hours (depending on size)

GOOD WITH

Seafood: shrimp, scallops, any fish

Poultry: chicken, turkey, game hen, duck

Meat: pork, veal

INGREDIENTS (MAKES ABOUT 1½ CUPS)

1 cup white wine

1 cup diced onion

1 tablespoon cracked black pepper

¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1/3 cup white wine vinegar

1 tablespoon chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

DIRECTIONS

1. Cook the white wine and onion in a medium skillet over medium-high heat until the liquid is reduced to ¼ cup. Remove from the heat and cool.

2. Combine the cooled onion-wine mixture and the remaining ingredients in a gallon-size zipper-lock bag; seal and shake.

3. Put the bag in a bowl just large enough to hold it snugly. Open the bag and add the meat. Seal the zipper, leaving about an inch open; push on the bag to release any trapped air through the opening, and close the zipper completely. Massage the liquid gently into the meat and refrigerate for the suggested time.

Saffron-Citrus Marinade

This crystalline liquid glows gold and has a subtle aroma of citrus blossoms. Reserve this marinade for delicate meats, and especially for seafood. If you don’t want to spring for the cost of saffron, we’d suggest you move on to another marinade. Someone might say that you can substitute turmeric and get the same effect, but the flavor