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All beers get their flavor and consistency from three primary ingredients:

Malted barley Malting is a process of sprouting barley so that it develops the sugars and soluble starches needed for fermentation, and then drying and mashing it to extract the sugars and starches from the grain. Roasted malt is used to produce dark beers.

Hops Not all of the sugar in barley ferments during malting, which causes beer that is made completely from barley to be decidedly sweet. Hops (1-inch-long green cone-shaped flowers) are added to beer to balance the sweetness. Mature hops contain bitter-tasting lupulin, which counteracts sweetness, gives beer a “hoppy” aroma, and acts as mild sedative.

Yeast Yeast is a living organism that feeds off of the sugars in the malt, converting them to alcohol and carbon dioxide in a process called fermentation. The yeast also affects the taste and mouth-feel of beer.

How these ingredients are combined with water to produce beer yields brews with different characteristics, which are described in the chart on the facing page.

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MARINATING TIME

Marinating small seafood and thin fish: 30 minutes

Marinating thick fish and boneless poultry: 1 hour

Marinating bone-in poultry, chops, and steaks: 2 to 3 hours

Marinating roasts: 3 to 8 hours (depending on size)

GOOD WITH

Seafood: shrimp, any dark-fleshed fish

Poultry: chicken, turkey, duck, goose

Meat: lamb, beef, pork

INGREDIENTS (MAKES ABOUT 1¾ CUPS)

1 dried ancho chile, or 2 tablespoons ground ancho chile

1 dried chipotle pepper, stem and seeds removed (keep the seeds if you like it hot), chopped, or 2 teaspoons ground chipotle chile

1 habanero chile, stem and seeds removed (keep the seeds if you like it hot), chopped

1 can (12 ounces) beer

1 cup diced onion

2 tablespoons molasses

1 tablespoon kosher salt

¼ cup aged balsamic vinegar

¼ cup apple cider vinegar

DIRECTIONS

1. To toast the ancho chile, hold it with long-handled tongs directly over the open flame of a stove top, or on the grill using direct high heat. Turning it once or twice to ensure even cooking, toast it until the chile gets pliable and puffs slightly. Let cool until comfortable to touch. Remove the stem and tear into small pieces. If using ground ancho chile, skip this step.

2. Combine the ancho chile and the remaining ingredients in a saucepan; cover and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for 5 minutes; cool to room temperature. Strain out the onions and chiles.

3. Put an open gallon-size zipper-lock bag in a bowl just large enough to hold it snugly. Add the cooled liquid and the meat. Seal the zipper, leaving about an inch open; push on the bag to release any trapped air through the opening, and close the zipper completely. Massage the liquid gently into the meat and refrigerate for the suggested time.

GRILLING WITH BEER

Sicilian Herb Bath

The key to this all-purpose Italianesque marinade isn’t the extra-virgin olive oil, wine vinegar, oregano, or tomato—it’s the anchovies. If you don’t like them, you’ve probably taken too big a bite. Anchovies are fermented, like stinky cheese and pungent fish sauce. No one wants a mouthful, but taken in slivers, as seasoning rather than the main attraction, anchovies add a depth of flavor that a list of a dozen “fresh” ingredients couldn’t duplicate.

TIMING

Prep: 5 minutes

MAKING SUBSTITUTIONS

• Make the marinade spicy by adding a pinch of crushed red pepper flakes or substituting a tablespoon of hot pepper oil for a tablespoon of the olive oil.

• If you really don’t like anchovies, you can substitute a few chopped-up dried wild mushrooms, but we’d suggest giving the anchovies a try.

• You can substitute a tablespoon of anchovy paste for the anchovies.

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MARINATING TIME

Marinating small seafood and thin fish: 30 minutes

Marinating thick fish and boneless poultry: 1 hour

Marinating bone-in poultry, chops, and steaks: 2 to 3 hours

Marinating roasts: 3 to 8 hours (depending