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By Root 1064 0

poultry, and veal with the aromas and flavors of Provence. Fennel, anise, and licorice all have a similar base flavor (see “Why Do Fennel, Anise, and Licorice Taste Alike?” on facing page) and can be interchanged in this brine, although fennel seed will give you the most authentic Provençal flavor. Do not substitute fresh fennel or anise bulb for the seed; their flavor is not nearly intense enough.

TIMING

Prep: 5 minutes

GETTING CREATIVE

• Replace the orange juice with pineapple juice, or add other citrus juices. A few tablespoons of lemon or lime juice will intensify the flavor of the brine.

• Change the flavor of the brine to suit your taste, substituting minced ginger, cumin seed, coriander seed, or cardamom for the fennel.

• Vary the herbs to match the flavor in your brine. Tarragon tastes great with pineapple juice; cilantro is excellent with lime.

BRINING TIME

Brining small seafood and thin fish: 30 minutes

Brining thick fish and boneless poultry: 1 hour

Brining bone-in poultry, chops, and steaks: 2 to 3 hours

Brining roasts: 3 to 8 hours (depending on size)

GOOD WITH

Seafood: shrimp, scallops, salmon, any white-fleshed fish

Poultry: chicken, turkey, game hen

Meat: beef, lamb, veal

WHY DO FENNEL, ANISE, AND LICORICE TASTE ALIKE?

Fennel, anise, and licorice are not related botanically, but they do have some similarities in flavor chemistry. All but one contains the same flavor component—anethole. In addition to tasting like anise, anethole is exceptionally sweet, about 13 times sweeter than table sugar, ounce for ounce, which is why in Southeast Asia and the Middle East spices like star anise, anise seed, and fennel are chewed as breath fresheners. Anise seed has the purest anise flavor because its flavor comes solely from anethole. In star anise the anethole is modified by some floral aromas, and in fennel seed the anethole is mitigated by the presence of pine and lemon components. The flavor of licorice is similar to that of anise and fennel, but it comes from a different chemical compound, paeonol, which has a musky nuance. That is why anethole is sometimes added to licorice candy to lend a sweeter, purer anise flavor. Anethole is also part of the flavor profile of the herb sweet cicely.

INGREDIENTS (MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS)

2 cups orange juice

2 tablespoons sugar

3 tablespoons kosher salt

½ teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper

2 tablespoons fennel seed or anise seed

DIRECTIONS

1. Combine the ingredients in a gallon-size zipper-lock bag; seal and shake until the salt and sugar dissolve, about 30 seconds.

2. Put the bag in a bowl just large enough to hold it snugly. Open the bag and add the meat. Seal the zipper, leaving about an inch open; push on the bag to release any trapped air through the opening, and close the zipper completely. Massage the liquid gently into the meat and refrigerate for the suggested time.

Photo: Trout soaking in Orange-Fennel Brine

Spicy Citrus Brine

Acids and salts both have the ability to denature proteins, which is why they are used to tenderize meats and infuse them with flavor. Marinades usually depend on acids, and brines use salt, but a partnership can be helpful. By flavoring this brine with citrus juice, we have been able to cut back on the amount of salt needed without sacrificing the brine’s ability to tenderize, flavor, and moisten.

TIMING

Prep: 5 minutes

* * *

BRINING TIME

Brining small seafood and thin fish: 30 minutes

Brining thick fish and boneless poultry: 1 hour

Brining bone-in poultry, chops, and steaks: 2 to 3 hours

Brining roasts: 3 to 8 hours (depending on size)

GOOD WITH

Seafood: shrimp, scallops, salmon, any fish

Poultry: chicken, turkey, game hen

Meat: pork, veal

INGREDIENTS (MAKES ABOUT 1¼ CUPS)

Juice of 2 oranges (about 2/3 cup)

Juice of 1 lemon (about ¼ cup)

Juice of 1 lime (about 2 tablespoons)

1½ tablespoons kosher salt

1 teaspoon dried thyme

1 tablespoon crushed red pepper flakes

DIRECTIONS

1. Pour the juices into a 2-cup measuring cup, and add enough water to make 1¼ cups. Pour into a gallon-size zipper-lock